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Getting the Yellow Out . . .

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#1
nad_reese

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I have a Gretsch blue glitter tom that has yellowed . . . I suppose from smoke and age . . . it is not faded, they just have slight yellowish/greenish cast, in fact, they are actually slightly darker due to the yellowing . . . can this be sanded/rubbed out like on a WMP shell? I just want it "bluer" so it will match some other blue glitter Gretsch I have . . . your input will be greatly appreciated . . . NAD
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#2
nad_reese

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BUMP . . . anyone care to comment on this post . . . any ideas? NAD
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#3
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Nad, I wish I could help but I have no idea! I was wondering the same with older WMP. As you wait for a reply, can you share how this is done on WMP? Thanks,
Paul
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#4
4164SB

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CREST White Strips, lots of 'em...
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#5
nad_reese

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Paul . . . send me a PM with an email address and I wil send you something . . . NAD
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#6
1up2dn

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some of the yellowing may be dirt/smoke, etc...

but the truth is the yellowing is due to UV light turning the top clear layer yellow...all the way thru...it is there for life...

the best you can do is clean it with a mild cleaner...then polish it with a plastic polish...i've used novus and some made by blue magic...use the very fine finishing polish and do it a couple of times...patience is a good thing...

ihave a set of WMP rogers and the cleaning/polishing helped but did not eliminate the yellowing...

when you're done thats is the best you can do...sorry, but wet sanding is really a bad idea....
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#7
Thud

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I was hoping I'd find a better answer here as well. I have a silver sparkle (Ludwig Classic Birch, so not very old at all) bass drum that yellowed quite a bit. Even on the bottom. I've tried basic cleaners and was going to do the ol' car polish routine next, but I'm afraid I'm stuck with a Red/Yellow/Blue kit instead of the Red/White/Blue I was hoping for.
Oh well, it's a cool little kit.
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#8
Keeper John

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I have to agree that yellowing is permanently in the wrap, you can clean and polish it but it won't go away. Sorry.
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#9
nad_reese

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Nothing can be done with silver sparkle . . . the change is on the "inside" not the outside . . . there is a literally change in the composition of the material that causes it to "ginger-ale" . . . I have been told it is a bacterial process that causes it . . . . I haven't had a chance to experiment with my blue sparkle, but if I make any progresss I will post . . . . NAD
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#10
Thud

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Hey NAD, any trade secrets for getting the yellow out of Bowling Ball Oyster Blue?
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#11
nad_reese

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Here is a link from a member that was working on Black Oyster Pearl . . . it may be helpful . . . I haven't had time to start on my blue sparkles yet, but if I make any progress I will post . . . NAD

http://www.drumforum.org/index.php?/topic/44195-any-hope-restoring-this-black-oyster-finish/page__hl__%2Byellowed+%2Boyster
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#12
Thud

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Here is a link from a member that was working on Black Oyster Pearl . . . it may be helpful . . . I haven't had time to start on my blue sparkles yet, but if I make any progress I will post . . . NAD

http://www.drumforum.org/index.php?/topic/44195-any-hope-restoring-this-black-oyster-finish/page__hl__%2Byellowed+%2Boyster



That looks pretty promising.
Thanks NAD
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#13
hoochymama

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Hey I've had some sucess with using a straight razor blade in one direction, you can get stains out this way as well as overall yellowing. It takes some time and really isn't worth doing an entire kit but you can do a snare drum. You must wet sand it down with various grits and machine rub it out with high grade polishes to finish it off. Its an option that worked for me
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