29 replies to this topic

[Cauldronics]

Forgive my frequency of posting. I'm more into drumming now that at any other time before, and I have a lot on my mind related to it.

Recently while packing up for a gig, I unscrewed the rod from the hi hat stand so it would fit into my rolling hardware bag (picture a golf caddy) and I wouldn't have to worry about the rod getting bent. I didn't anticipate the amount of grease there would be on the rod, but went with it anyway.

I won't do it that way again, and I'm wondering how other drummers deal with the hi hat stand and rod when packing up for a gig?

Other times, I've raised the upper tube to cover most of the rod, but then the stand sticks out of the bag and gets unruly.

Edited by Cauldronics, 20 June 2012 - 04:56 PM.

[Bugford]

I unscrew it every time -- no problems. Is your rod in two pieces, or one?

[hefty]

I've tried unscrewing it and nestling within the tube of the hi-hat stand, held sort of in place with the clutch. But often I get lazy and just throw it in the case as-is and as a result most of my hi-hat rods are a little bent.

[agogobil]

I don't break the stand down. I pull the top tube up to the top of the rod and tighten down the clutch there. That way the rod is mostly covered by the tube.



[attachment=134863:hihat fix.JPG]

Edited by agogobil, 20 June 2012 - 05:53 PM.

[Jeff Shoup]

I use mostly Yamaha 700 series hi hat stands, and with those, you can simply disconnect the rod, place it in the tube on the bottom half of the hi hat stand, and then replace the top tube to keep it secure. Of course you need to put the clutch and the seating washers somewhere else, but this arrangement worked well for me for a long time.

Last year I bought a hardware bag that has about a 43" inside length, which allows me to avoid having to do any of this. Now I just raise the clutch to the very top, raise the top tube up under it, and then stick it in the bag. Another nice thing about the tall hardware bag is that I just lower the top tier on my cymbal stands, too. Minimal breakdown. And it's got wheels. A great back-saving investment.

JS

[TheBeachBoy]

I'm lazy when it comes to packing my gear. I only break down the legs of my hardware and put them all in a long Gator bag. I use a Rock n Roller, so everything fits, with the hardware bag on top. The bag gets heavy, but I only have to lift it a couple times from my car to the cart, then back again after the gig.

[Cauldronics]

.

Last year I bought a hardware bag that has about a 43" inside length, which allows me to avoid having to do any of this. Now I just raise the clutch to the very top, raise the top tube up under it, and then stick it in the bag. Another nice thing about the tall hardware bag is that I just lower the top tier on my cymbal stands, too. Minimal breakdown. And it's got wheels. A great back-saving investment.

JS

I think I have the same hardware bag or very similar, and as I mentioned, I've tried the same thing but it pokes out of the top and then the rod gets caught on car seats and other fun stuf, even when the tube is raised to the top for protection.

I'm 6'5" so maybe my stands are setup higher than most people do. The hydraulic roc n soc is all the way to the top.

The gator bag is a huge relief compared to schlepping hardware in a rolled up carpet like I used to do not so long ago.

Edited by Cauldronics, 20 June 2012 - 06:20 PM.

[K.O.]

After I unscrew the rod joint I just leave the rod inside the top tube with the clutch still in place and put the whole works into my case. Haven't yet had a problem doing so over the last 40 years with many different brands of both vintage and modern hi-hat stands.

Lately i have started to add some blue locktite to the bottom half of the coupler so that only the top half of the rod will unscrew, not that that was a particular problem.

Edited by K.O., 20 June 2012 - 07:53 PM.

[Erik]

After I unscrew the rod joint I just leave the rod inside the top tube with the clutch still in place and put the whole works into my case. Haven't yet had a problem doing so over the last 40 years with many different brands of both vintage and modern hi-hat stands.

Lately i have started to add some blue locktite to the bottom half of the coupler so that only the top half of the rod will unscrew, not that that was a particular problem.

+1! My dad taught me that method. I use a Tama hi-hat stand, that I bought back in 1984, and i have never had a problem with a bent rod , or grease in my trap case.

[hutdoug]

I do what agogobil does.

[tillerva]

I do what KO does but i put the clutch all the way at the top of the rod so its fully in the tube.

[K.O.]

I just happened to have this picture on my hard drive. This is one of my 1124 Ludwig Hi Hat stands all ready to pack up into a hardware case or bag (I took the picture a couple of years ago to demonstrate how compact it was).

That's what I do with any and all hi-hat stands. As mentioned above it's worked fine so far.

[Manicoti]

I cut my rod down by a few inches. I tend to have my hats set a little lower and didn't need the extra 2-3"s. I leave the rod in and have no issues. I use a 48" beato bag and have lots of extra room.

[6topher]

I do what KO does as well -

in addition, clean your hi-hat stand thoroughly (really thoroughly) and re lube with a correct amount of clean bike chain lube & once it works in you won't have that black grease problem.

[PeterK]

Uh, I never had grease on any hi-hat rod, and I've owned quite a few hi-hat stands over the years. Am I missing something? I just unscrew it and leave it nested in the upper tube with the clutch left on, just like everyone else has mentioned. But I never noticed any grease on it. Should I be greasing my rod?

[6topher]

always grease your rod! wait..never grease your rod?

the rod doesn't need greased itself exactly, but the mechanism sometimes does. An old hi hat stand that has had years of dirt & the occasional lube with whatever was handy in the garage shoved or sprayed down the tube will have black gunk on the rod.

I meant re-lube the stand, the spring, the mechanism but not the rod itself necessarily.

Edited by 6topher, 20 June 2012 - 10:35 PM.

[Jeff Shoup]

.

Last year I bought a hardware bag that has about a 43" inside length, which allows me to avoid having to do any of this. Now I just raise the clutch to the very top, raise the top tube up under it, and then stick it in the bag. Another nice thing about the tall hardware bag is that I just lower the top tier on my cymbal stands, too. Minimal breakdown. And it's got wheels. A great back-saving investment.

JS

I think I have the same hardware bag or very similar, and as I mentioned, I've tried the same thing but it pokes out of the top and then the rod gets caught on car seats and other fun stuf, even when the tube is raised to the top for protection.

I'm 6'5" so maybe my stands are setup higher than most people do. The hydraulic roc n soc is all the way to the top.

The gator bag is a huge relief compared to schlepping hardware in a rolled up carpet like I used to do not so long ago.

The one I'm using is the Warwick RockBag. Overall it's OK but it's kind of cheaply made. I've had to do three repairs on it in just over a year. I think I'm going to upgrade to one of the Humes & Berg Drum Seeker wheeled bags.

At any rate, both my Yamaha 700 and DW flat base hi hat stands fit in here fully extended, and the zippered top closes right over them. I've never had an issue with it hanging/snagging on anything.

[chappy]

Keep mine in the top tube with the clutch held in place by a bungie cord. No bent pull rods here.

Chappy

[cearleywine]

I only break down the legs. I use a bass guitar padded gig bag, fits my hardware with the bottom half zipped. I've done this for about 7 years now, no issues.

[paul]

Like K.O., I unscrew the rod and leave it in the tube with clutch also in place. No problems ever. I pack it in a Bass Pro boat bag with snare stand and throne.