It looks like they're using the same principle as the Inde mount, which is to achieve dampening by letting the user adjust the stiffness with which the mount holds the shell. Pearl's implementation is obviously quite different though.
It's exciting to finally see a substantial amount new...
This is a cool overview the quintuplet & septuplet feels used by Dilla and others: https://www.brltheory.com/analysis/dilla-part-ii-theory-quintuplet-swing-septuplet-swing-playing-off-the-grid/
I've been playing the leather beater for about 8 months, and it's pretty great overall. It has a really nice sound at all dynamics and feels great under foot.
My heavy and frequent stomping has softened up the leather a bit, though it has held its shape. I'm thinking about replacing the top and...
I don't know about the timeline, but DW did have a shell molding operation at the Ensenada factory that produced the CX.
At a certain point, DW began quietly offering these shells to some of the smaller drum manufacturers. They were made to the exact same specs as Keller 8-ply shells, and were...
Sounds like a cool project!
You can find clear satin flame here. Had a sample of this many years ago and experimented with painting the back and gluing it to a scrap shell. I *think* it worked, but I can't remember if there were any imperfections. In any case, it's not terribly expensive and...
The photos made me go "hmmm..." but I saw a kit in on the floor at Pro Drum Shop last weekend and it actually looked kinda awesome. The colors really show off the classic oyster pearl multi-layered effect.
The photos on DCP's website have a gold-ish tint, but it's more of a bright yellow in person.
Shrinkage really depends on the material. Wood veneers are designed to be shaped and fit precisely. Once they're glued in place, they should be just as stable as the rest of the shell.
Plastic drum wraps may shrink a bit as they age. Some of the vintage pearls would shrink a lot, but the newer...
Check that the hoops are both flat and round enough (you shouldn't have to squeeze the head to fit it in the hoop). Warped hoops can really affect tunability.
From firsthand experience:
It's generally a bad idea on snares. I haven't seen them bend the shell, but they dig into the finish at the top edge and I've actually seen the inserts (the vertical tube that the tension rod screws into) break off due to tension.
They work fine on toms and bass drums.
These have been on my "someday" list since they came out. The only problems for me are the high cost and the fact that they discontinued the natural finish, which was my favorite by far.
Someday though!
Premier did indeed offer this configuration: https://www.drumarchive.com/Premier/Premier1998.pdf
That said, it's hard to see the kick drum in the photos--wouldn't hurt to ask the seller to double check the diameter.
Virtuoso polish and a microfiber cloth can get you from "extremely satin" to "somewhat shiny" (example). If you want a true glass-like gloss, you'll need to take a more traditional sand / apply gloss / sand / buff approach. That's a lot more work and you run the risk of sanding through the color...
Judging by the weight of 1.54 lb, the dimensions of 17.13 x 11.34 x 3.9 inches, and the item code (SDBS14 https://www.tama.com/jp/products/detail/sdbs14.html)...I'm pretty sure you're gonna get a snare bag.
I suspect we'll see some difference in manufacturing methods and materials, but I don't think drum kit will be radically different.
Maybe someone will finally figure out how to make a decent drumstick out of something other than a hardwood dowel.
There will probably be some innovation in wood...
Looking back at the years when I read pretty much every issue cover to cover (1995-2012), two things stick out:
Diverse types of players covered. MD served as my initial introduction to the greats, as well as not-yet-legendary but current performers. I also enjoyed reading interviews with...