1960’s Radioking kit yay or nay?

Aaronjiski

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I’ve found an amazing deal on a very lightly used Gretsch Broadkaster. Sizes are spot on and the price is (almost) too good to be true. It has the vintage vibe but of course and I can’t stress this enough the wood hasn’t aged the same and been a drum for 70+ years and this at least to me matters. That’s why the Radiokings seemed like a dead ringer for love to me.

If I may ask a side-question. The Gretsch I’m looking at has the vintage diamond mount tom-holders drilled into the shell and the rail console and by the looks only fits one racktom on the kick at a time but this kit comes with 2 racks. Anyone know a way around that? Have one on the console and one on a tom stand?

Thanks again.
 

retrosonic

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I’ve found an amazing deal on a very lightly used Gretsch Broadkaster. Sizes are spot on and the price is (almost) too good to be true. It has the vintage vibe but of course and I can’t stress this enough the wood hasn’t aged the same and been a drum for 70+ years and this at least to me matters. That’s why the Radiokings seemed like a dead ringer for love to me.

If I may ask a side-question. The Gretsch I’m looking at has the vintage diamond mount tom-holders drilled into the shell and the rail console and by the looks only fits one racktom on the kick at a time but this kit comes with 2 racks. Anyone know a way around that? Have one on the console and one on a tom stand?

Thanks again.


Aaron, if it has the rail consolette mount, then the way you mount the second tom is by adding a second post, clasp and spade to the rail, its easy, the rail has two bolts on the ends that you remove, and then you pop it out, slide on the second post, reinstall and youre good to go. Thats how they did it until around 1965 when the double tom mount came out.

is this what the mount looks like on the drum youre watching?
1630859020578.jpeg
 
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Aaronjiski

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Aaron, if it has the rail consolette mount, then the way you mount the second tom is by adding a second post, clasp and spade to the rail, its easy, the rail has two bolts on the ends that you remove, and then you pop it out, slide on the second post, reinstall and youre good to go. Thats how they did it until around 1965 when the double tom mount came out.

is this what the mount looks like on the drum youre watching?
View attachment 516154
Looks just about right what’s on there. I’m 6’3 and I’m concerned that those toms might be too low and if needed I need a way to “prop” them up. I had the same thing happen with my 68’ Ludwig kit,I used Gibraltar tom holders to get the weight off the kick and be able to position them higher.
 

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Tama CW

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Looks just about right what’s on there. I’m 6’3 and I’m concerned that those toms might be too low and if needed I need a way to “prop” them up. I had the same thing happen with my 68’ Ludwig kit,I used Gibraltar tom holders to get the weight off the kick and be able to position them higher.
If they came with the short spade, you can substitute the tall spade which will add 2-3 more inches in vertical height once you rotate the clock face to the appropriate position.
 

retrosonic

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Yes, all you need is another post and clasp and spade. No problem there!
 

Aaronjiski

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Yes, all you need is another post and clasp and spade. No problem there!
That would require drilling extra holes on the kick for the rail correct?
Or does it sit between the lugs off the drum?
Thank you.
 

retrosonic

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Hi Aaron.

Not sure I understand what you mean? Does the drum have a rail on it now? Was the picture of the red set you posted the set in question? If yes, then you dont need to do any drilling! You just need to buy another post, clasp and spade and install it on the existing rail. Thats where your second tom will mount.
Like this, but with the rail thats already on your drum:


1630939515036.png



Steve Maxwell used to sell the repro posts...see the below pic. You dont need the rail if there is already one on your drum like in the picture you posted.

1630939801621.jpeg
 
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Aaronjiski

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Hi Aaron.

Not sure I understand what you mean? Does the drum have a rail on it now? Was the picture of the red set you posted the set in question? If yes, then you dont need to do any drilling! You just need to buy another post, clasp and spade and install it on the existing rail. Thats where your second tom will mount.
Like this, but with the rail thats already on your drum:


View attachment 516288


Steve Maxwell used to sell the repro posts...see the below pic. You dont need the rail if there is already one on your drum like in the picture you posted.

View attachment 516289
It does have the exact mount as pictured. I understand the concept of adding on a second mount, I’m just wondering will both toms fit on that rail if I choose to have 2 up and can I position them where I am not reaching or having them spread too far apart? The toms are 12” and 13” and they usually are positioned in the middle of the kick. Since the railmount is off center to the left wouldn’t that interfere with positioning the toms closer together?


Maybe I’m missing a key factor and I am treading water here, I just want to be sure I before I sink cash into that kit. Perhaps I’m wanting it to do something it’s not meant to do.


Thank you, and I’m sure Steve Maxwell has had customers run into this issue before.
 

squidart

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Since your rail is off-center you're definitely not going to be able to get 2 toms happening without adding another rail. (Don't do it! Pretty please.) Your earlier idea of one on the rail and another on a snare stand (or flown off another stand) sounds like the most practical way to do it. Could always find a double clip(spade) mount stand as well.
 

retrosonic

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Understood. You know, the only way for you really know is to buy a cheap post assembly (even an MIJ)
and test it all out. But yes, maybe the snare stand idea is better for you. Personally, I hate the look of that, but thats just crazy me.
 

multijd

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That Zephyr kit was my last foray into natural-skin heads. Ever since they first came out I've used Remo Fiberskyn heads, which get close enough to the sound of calf to satisfy me. Plus, I play a 2-up/2-down/2-BD kit, and the PITA of keeping 13 skin heads in tune every day would completely overwhelm the advantages in sound and feel that natural skin offers. I might try a calf head just on my reissue wood Dyna-Sonic, but not on the rest of my kit. (Plus, re-skinning my entire kit with calf heads would run me around $1,500!)

P.S. If I had that Zephyr kit now I'd appreciate it much more than I did when I was a teenager. My main kit back then was an E.W. Kent in BDP finish; the black-and-gold duco Zephyrs seemed terribly old-fashioned. In fact, I never took the Zephyrs out of the house — the teen-aged me would have been embarrassed. I'm older and wiser now...
Most of us that use calf/kangaroo/mule only put the natural skin on top/batter.
 

multijd

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What a dream kit! Have you ever tried Kentville? I believe it’s from kangaroo hide instead of calf, I’ve heard positive things.
I have a bunch of Kentville heads. They are fantastic. Also Bovid sells natural heads.
 

multijd

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I’ve found an amazing deal on a very lightly used Gretsch Broadkaster. Sizes are spot on and the price is (almost) too good to be true. It has the vintage vibe but of course and I can’t stress this enough the wood hasn’t aged the same and been a drum for 70+ years and this at least to me matters. That’s why the Radiokings seemed like a dead ringer for love to me.

If I may ask a side-question. The Gretsch I’m looking at has the vintage diamond mount tom-holders drilled into the shell and the rail console and by the looks only fits one racktom on the kick at a time but this kit comes with 2 racks. Anyone know a way around that? Have one on the console and one on a tom stand?

Thanks again.
That Gretsch set will sound very different from a Radio King or any Slingerland 3-ply.
 

Aaronjiski

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Since your rail is off-center you're definitely not going to be able to get 2 toms happening without adding another rail. (Don't do it! Pretty please.) Your earlier idea of one on the rail and another on a snare stand (or flown off another stand) sounds like the most practical way to do it. Could always find a double clip(spade) mount stand as well.
That’s what I feared. Even thinking of drilling a Gretsch Broadkaster should be nothing shorter than
Understood. You know, the only way for you really know is to buy a cheap post assembly (even an MIJ)
and test it all out. But yes, maybe the snare stand idea is better for you. Personally, I hate the look of that, but thats just crazy me.
That’s my train of thought as well. It does come with a 12” and 13”, seems like you have to choose which one you want for a song (fairly odd for a new kit but whatever). I have used snare stands with mixed results since they tend to kill tone unless you have some Booty Shakers on there. There are ways I’m sure i.e. rack systems and RIMS mounts etc. but why spend all that cash on something that needs additional gear?

Since this thread started I have found a RK kit that might be the one. 13,16,24 with a cradle for the 16. I figure the Broadkasters will be around if I change my mind since they’re newer but RK’s are like finding your wife. It just works (usually):).
 

hsosdrum

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Most of us that use calf/kangaroo/mule only put the natural skin on top/batter.
Replacing heads is the scourge of owning a large drumset. Replacing only my kit's batters with calf heads from Pro Drum would run around $830, which is too rich for me. The most I could splurge would be the $98.00 for a calf head for my Dyna (which I'm seriously thinking about doing once the Fiberskyn 3 currently on it bubbles so badly that it requires replacement — probably by the end of the year).
 

multijd

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Replacing heads is the scourge of owning a large drumset. Replacing only my kit's batters with calf heads from Pro Drum would run around $830, which is too rich for me. The most I could splurge would be the $98.00 for a calf head for my Dyna (which I'm seriously thinking about doing once the Fiberskyn 3 currently on it bubbles so badly that it requires replacement — probably by the end of the year).
It took me awhile to get all of the heads. Yo bought some used, watch for sales on Steve Weiss and lone star or anywhere else that sells them. I mainly bought Kentville. They are the best as far as I can tell.
 

Aaronjiski

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Replacing heads is the scourge of owning a large drumset. Replacing only my kit's batters with calf heads from Pro Drum would run around $830, which is too rich for me. The most I could splurge would be the $98.00 for a calf head for my Dyna (which I'm seriously thinking about doing once the Fiberskyn 3 currently on it bubbles so badly that it requires replacement — probably by the end of the year).
Stan does fantastic work on calfskins (or anything for that matter). I believe he told me he’s been tucking heads since the 60’s. I got some goatskins for my 1890’s Lyon&Haley snares, odd sizes 15.5”. They’re back in commission thanks to Stan the man.
It ain’t cheap but they’ll last a while if you moisturize them especially in LA weather.
 

Aaronjiski

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On a sidenote. If the edge of one of the drums is this split can it be repaired? Or am
I looking at wood filler for days?

I can’t understate how much I’ve learned from you guys on here. Is there a patreon page or something where I can donate to keep this page alive?
Thank you.
 

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