80s Yamaha Recording Custom snare

markekaylor

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Hi folks,
I recently acquired an older Yamaha Recording Custom snare. It needs some help. It looks like the butt side is missing something?
Also, did these have special wires or can I use regular ones?
I'd like to bring this back from the dead, intrigued by the 8" depth & die cast hoops.
Thanks,
Mk20190308_115229.jpg 20190308_125536.jpg
 

Tama CW

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Sort of looks like the framework for an extended wires and/or super-sensitive mechanism.

What's the model/serial number on your drum? It can be easily identified to the Yamaha catalogs and the month/yr it was made. One half begins with "SD####" and the other half with 2 letters followed by numbers.
 
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markekaylor

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Its SD098.
I'm not super concerned with getting it back to original if its possible to just throw some regular old wires on there. I've dug around a bit and it seems the parts for these are hard to come by and expensive.
Mk
 

Tama CW

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Your drum shows up in the 1986 catalog (pg 29 of 49) It had extended snare wires with metal roller gates on each side. Your rollers and locking tabs are gone. Probably not too easy to find off of a SD096 or SD098 snares. But a lot of the metal SD295, and 296's were made having the same mechanisms. And trashed metal SD's can be found for as little as a $100...maybe less if they have damaged shells. I had a slightly rusty SD296 that I picked up for $125 that was once used in the Trump Plaza orchestra. These drums came with triple flanged aluminum power hoops per the catalog...which often have the chrome flaking off. Your die cast hoops could be aftermarkets. A lot of these roller snare drums were simplified in the field with regular length wires to like yours is now. Once set, both ways sound nearly the same. Sometimes the roller mechanisms get to be a pain to deal with....and get removed.

http://drumarchive.com/Yamaha/Yamaha1986.pdf
 
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Tama CW

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My SD498 14x8 Yamaha brass snare originally came with regular length wires for 14". Works fine.

The extended snare wires are around 15-1/2" You can play your drum just fine with regular 13-14" wires and regular plastic/string for tension. Yamaha originally used 3/4" or 1" tape on the snare wire ends. After decades the tape becomes brittle and frays into pieces. Advantage of extended wires is that only the wires touch your reso head...not the metal tabs on each end which don't contribute anything to the "buzz". If Yamaha still has stock of the parts you need, I'd bet they cost a pretty penny.

Another option might be to remove your metal extender brackets and put on a 1 piece style with fixed roller. It allows you to use the extended wires. These were used on the 7000 series and other snares. If you have 27-28 mm on center spacing for the pair of holes into the shell, these would work as replacement extender brackets. You can find these 1980's brackets for around $25 each on Ebay. I have one NOS one where the assembly is made out of hard black plastic. In the early years they made them out of metal.
 
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markekaylor

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I think I'm just gonna order some new heads and standard wires...see what happens. If anything I might remove the old gates since they won't be used. Looking forward to restoring this baby. Oh, I was wrong about the hoops. They are indeed the original "Superhoops". With flaking chrome.
Mk
 

Mcjnic

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Here’s mine from 79 ... earlier form of the mech. Mine was still the hard plastic version with the tape.


3B09CA54-097F-4307-8CE2-79D03DD3AE3C.jpeg



Some good advice here. You should be able to work around if you’re not looking at kind for kind.
 

Tama CW

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Baz1949 with a nice view of the SD065 super-sensitive style snare in real wood natural finish. I have one of those in COS.

Here's a close up of the black plastic extender. I have a pair of these on my 1982 Yamaha SD765MA snare drum. Interesting that my 1978 SD750MD snare has an all metal bracket and roller. Sometime between 1978 and 1982 they went to the black plastic. And by 1985/86 they were back to metal brackets again on the high end steel snares.
 

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BennyK

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I use Pearl extended wires from a Free-Floater on my Yamaha 9000 with those black plastic gates .
 

markekaylor

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Well I heard back from Yamaha, got myself registered, and looked in to what it would cost to get the parts to bring this baby back to "stock" form.
Good news is, they have all the parts! Which is kinda unbelievable.
To get the parts I'm missing, the rollers, guide plates, screws is $38.92 which ain't too bad.
But.....the wires are $73.36!
Now if the Pearl extended wires work fine as BennyK mentions, that might be the trick.

This week I have new heads and standard, generic wires. I'm gonna set the drum up that way. If I dig it, very cool. If not I may restore it.
thanks for all the help, I'll update once I get this thing playing again!
Mk
 

Tama CW

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I have to wonder if Yamaha quoted you the price on the super-sensitive style wires. Those could be $73 each as I don't think anything even close is made in the aftermarket. But for regular wires, asking anything more than $35-$45 seems too much.
 

markekaylor

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I have to wonder if Yamaha quoted you the price on the super-sensitive style wires. Those could be $73 each as I don't think anything even close is made in the aftermarket. But for regular wires, asking anything more than $35-$45 seems too much.
Part # UO241340
Which are the wires that were originally used for the snare, correct?
Mk
 

Tama CW

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Those are the ones on the drawing provided. So that "must be" correct. That drawing appears to be of a SD493 14x3.5 brass piccolo model with the double lugs. ALL the other snare drums in the 1986 catalog show long, single style lugs. But they probably all share the same extended snare wires....assuming there's not something "special" about the wires used on the brass snare drums.
 

BennyK

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Are these the one?
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/pearl-20-strand-bridge-type-snare-drum-wires

Pretty cheap compared to the $73.36 wants for the originals!
I just measured mine, and yes, they are 15 3/4 " inches long . The butts just make contact with the plastic gate on either end . I was planning to file a tiny bit off of each butt or stand off the gates a hair with spacers but never got around to it . I don't think it matters as long as you center the whole length as precisely as you can . I've been using this setup for @ twenty years , so far so good .

Best to use gross grain ribbon straps .
 

markekaylor

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Ok, update on this snare.
I got some new heads and standard wires, set the snare up in a traditional fashion. It was finicky to adjust even without dealing with the roller mechanism, I must say. I finally got it sort of dialed in, I like the way it sounds with snares on and off.

Here's the deal though, and I've read this about these snare drums. I get a ton of snare buzz! Not just when I hit one drum but from any of my other drums, bass, toms, etc....the snare gets alot of sympathetic buzz going on.

Kinda bummed since I was thinking it might be a keeper, but if I can't tune that buzz out I may just sell.

Anyone have any have this issue and able to solve it? I've read a few times that these babies were prone to this, at least in "stock" fashion, but I was hoping that by bypassing that system it might be ok.

thanks,
Mk
 

Ptrick

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Seeing as that was meant for extended wires, it probably has either none or a very slight snare bed. Which would contribute to the buzz with regular wires.

You need the type of wires that the ends fold up, pushing down into the drum. Fat cat calls them “pitch” snare wires, and they are made specifically for drums with little to no snare beds. There are a few other companies that make this type, I think I have some Tamas with a similar design.

https://www.drumfactorydirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_104_374_664&products_id=10087
 

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