Anyone have a recommendation for removing adhesive from a head?

lrod1707

DFO Veteran
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
2,331
Reaction score
800
Location
Florida
This seemed like the place to post this since you guys build. I peeled off an Aquarian kick pad from my Bass batter head and it's got a layer of glue. I bought a new one and don't want to just stick it over the old glue because it will start peeling quickly. I need something to get that glue off without damaging the head and something to clean it back to it's original condition. Spending $50 on a new head is not an option. Any recommendations?
 

JazzDrumGuy

DFO Master
Joined
Feb 16, 2016
Messages
7,978
Reaction score
1,073
Location
Pebble Beach, CA
Use an old t-shirt as paper towels will scratch a clear head!

You can try warm water & soap but unlikely. Rubbing alcohol/hand sanitizer & a Q-tip - maybe. It may allow you to loosen the glue pieces a little. Goo Gone mostly likely will work. If not, Goof Off but it is pretty strong (ie: toxic & chemically)......as will a little paint thinner (probably more toxic).....
 

Old Dog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2019
Messages
207
Reaction score
56
Location
Indiana
WARNING: I've never tried this on a drum head, ONLY on cymbals. But mineral spirits will take adhesive off cleanly and dries quickly. But, as I said, I've not tried it on a head yet. I would use mineral spirits when I'd re-grip golf clubs. I really don't think it would damage a head, as long as it's wiped off relatively quickly. Good luck.
 

lrod1707

DFO Veteran
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
2,331
Reaction score
800
Location
Florida
Interesting, Old Dog. I use Lighter fluid for regripping clubs and I just came back to add that the OP could try Ronsonol Lighter Fluid (yellow bottle)....that may work.
Someone had a similar post a while back but I couldn't find it. And you just reminded me that somebody had mentioned butane. I will give that a go since its cheap and if that doesn't work I'll go with Goo gone. I quit smoking cigarettes 2 years ago an used to buy the Ronsonol for my Zippo's at Wal Mart. It was always at the checkout counter but can't remember seeing it recently. I'll swing by this weekend and pick some up. Matter of fact, I'll get some Goo gone as well. Either way, I'm sure the Goo gone can stay in the garage for some future use.
 

Old Dog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2019
Messages
207
Reaction score
56
Location
Indiana
Interesting, Old Dog. I use Lighter fluid for regripping clubs and I just came back to add that the OP could try Ronsonol Lighter Fluid (yellow bottle)....that may work.
I learned to use mineral spirits from a local club builder back around '02? Stayed with me, never even tried a different solvent for re-gripping clubs. Never thought of lighter fluid. Is it relatively cheap?
 

K.O.

DFO Master
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
19,317
Reaction score
1,309
Location
Illinois
Lighter fluid (for cigarette lighters) is naptha which is a fairly mild solvent and should do the trick. If it's a clear or smooth white head then you can probably bring out the big guns if necessary, which means acetone. I've used that to remove logo's and such with no ill effects to the Mylar "skin" of a head. If it's a coated head then almost any solvent you use runs the risk of removing the coating.

There is supposedly a magic solvent out there that will remove logos and gunk from coated heads without hurting the coating but I've never had a definitive answer as to what it is. I've heard both that it might be rubber cement thinner or some type of cleaner/solvent for old mimeograph machines but do not know if it's either or something else altogether. Anyone clued in on that?
 

lrod1707

DFO Veteran
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
2,331
Reaction score
800
Location
Florida
I learned to use mineral spirits from a local club builder back around '02? Stayed with me, never even tried a different solvent for re-gripping clubs. Never thought of lighter fluid. Is it relatively cheap?
I went and bought some about an hour ago. I couldn't find it at Wal Mart so either they don't carry it anymore or my local store was out of stock. I found it at Walgreens, 12oz. bottle for $6 & change. I'll give it a go tomorrow and see if it does the job.
 

lrod1707

DFO Veteran
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
2,331
Reaction score
800
Location
Florida
Lighter fluid (for cigarette lighters) is naptha which is a fairly mild solvent and should do the trick. If it's a clear or smooth white head then you can probably bring out the big guns if necessary, which means acetone. I've used that to remove logo's and such with no ill effects to the Mylar "skin" of a head. If it's a coated head then almost any solvent you use runs the risk of removing the coating.

There is supposedly a magic solvent out there that will remove logos and gunk from coated heads without hurting the coating but I've never had a definitive answer as to what it is. I've heard both that it might be rubber cement thinner or some type of cleaner/solvent for old mimeograph machines but do not know if it's either or something else altogether. Anyone clued in on that?
The head I need to work on is clear. I only use coated on snares. I'll be working on it tomorrow with the lighter fluid.
 

K.O.

DFO Master
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
19,317
Reaction score
1,309
Location
Illinois
I bought a red sparkle floor tom a year or so ago that had been "re-wrapped" with duct tape. The tape had been removed but the white adhesive residue still covered the drum all over. Lots of WD40 and a ton of elbow grease (many hours worth) ended up doing the trick. Nothing else that I knew wouldn't "eat" the vintage wrap (like acetone will) seemed to phase it.

Mylar is pretty stout stuff. Lighter fluid should work but if not you should be able to step up to more potent solvents. My dad used to clean tools and stuff with gasoline. It worked, but is pretty dangerous.
 

lrod1707

DFO Veteran
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
2,331
Reaction score
800
Location
Florida
I bought a red sparkle floor tom a year or so ago that had been "re-wrapped" with duct tape. The tape had been removed but the white adhesive residue still covered the drum all over. Lots of WD40 and a ton of elbow grease (many hours worth) ended up doing the trick. Nothing else that I knew wouldn't "eat" the vintage wrap (like acetone will) seemed to phase it.

Mylar is pretty stout stuff. Lighter fluid should work but if not you should be able to step up to more potent solvents. My dad used to clean tools and stuff with gasoline. It worked, but is pretty dangerous.
My wife would be pretty pissed if the house smelled like gas, Lol!! I'm trying to work on it without removing the head. I got the lighter fluid and will be trying it out tonight. I'll keep the gasoline on the list of possibilities. Maybe in the end I will have to remove it and take it into the garage to work on it. Now that you mentioned gasoline, I wonder if Avgas (the blue stuff) would work. Avgas doesn't smell like regular gas and it evaporates immediately.
 

Rock Salad

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2018
Messages
159
Reaction score
75
Location
Tulsa, Ok. USA
I used vegetable oil. It takes some work but absolutely won't hurt a thing.
edit: (not even coatings or logos.)
Then clean the oil off with soap and water dampened rag.
 

sheridan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
313
Reaction score
20
Location
Pittsburgh
You could try 91% alcohol, or the one thing that I use for to get rid of adhesives and spray paint overspray, and anything else that is difficult to clean,( and gets rid of bees extremely well) is brake cleaner. It comes in chlorinated and non-chlorinated. I found that the non-chlorinated seems to be stronger. You don’t need a lot either and it dries really fast. You can buy it in any auto parts store or any department store with an auto section.
 

Drumming-4-Life

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2018
Messages
77
Reaction score
47
Location
NJ, USA
Alcohol might work. Goo Gone might work, but leaves a residue that should be removed with Windex. Acetone works just fine on Evans and Remo clear heads... but like another member mentioned, DON'T use paper towels. It acts like a sandpaper on Mylar. Of course, work with chemicals outside or in the garage.
 

lrod1707

DFO Veteran
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
2,331
Reaction score
800
Location
Florida
You could try 91% alcohol, or the one thing that I use for to get rid of adhesives and spray paint overspray, and anything else that is difficult to clean,( and gets rid of bees extremely well) is brake cleaner. It comes in chlorinated and non-chlorinated. I found that the non-chlorinated seems to be stronger. You don’t need a lot either and it dries really fast. You can buy it in any auto parts store or any department store with an auto section.
Interesting, I wonder though what the after effect would be on clear mylar?
 

lrod1707

DFO Veteran
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
2,331
Reaction score
800
Location
Florida
Alcohol might work. Goo Gone might work, but leaves a residue that should be removed with Windex. Acetone works just fine on Evans and Remo clear heads... but like another member mentioned, DON'T use paper towels. It acts like a sandpaper on Mylar. Of course, work with chemicals outside or in the garage.
I bought the lighter fluid the other day and that's gonna be the first thing I try and take it from there. I've read around and it seems like it works and leaves the mylar intact. I just haven't had time to do it. Hopefully in the next couple of days.
 


Top