Yes Sir .View attachment 559629 Has anyone ever refurbished or repaired this style of hoops. Both hoops are pretty nicked up. If so, how did you do it. These are 70's.
Yes I would like to repair. The white cortex strip looks good.@Camaro: The hoop doesn’t look like it’s in bad shape . Depends how far you want to take it . The ones I’m showing are 60’s RB . If you decide to strip them PM me and I’ll give you a step by step instruction and include the primer , paint and clear coat I used . They came out perfect and better then the factory .
Those look good.Yes Sir .
Thanks . The first thing you want to do s tape off the Inlay with 4” strips of blue / frog tape ( you will control the tape lines better with shorter lengths ) . Don’t be temped to use a electric palm sander , hand sand the hoops only . It will take you a little while and patience is required but by hand sanding you will control the evenness of the maple . Use 2” square 100 grit paper folded in half . Do the interior of the hoop first , then the outer flats , then the bearing edges , then the inlay area with the inlay edges last . I did each hoop in a couple of hours . Get all the dust off and use Mineral spirits wiping down entire hoop , it will dry fast . Place the hoop upright between two horses or whatever when finishing , don’t finish coat on the flat . After 20 minutes you can turn the hoop and keep spraying . I start on the inside first and work out . Don’t spray to far up the hoop on the inside or you’ll have runs . (1) 2X Rustoleum Gray or black primer . (2) High Performance Flat Black Rustoleum and 2X Rustoleum Clear Satin . I did 3 coats of clear . Those hoops will take abuse and still look good . Hard finish . Let the coats dry thoroughly for a day in between coats inside . Also , when sanding don’t try and sand the nicks completely out . Look at the picture of my hoop sanded , you’ll see where the claws were . Just sand over them you won’t or will barely see them when you are done . Trying to get them completely out will damage your hoop . Say with the profiles of your bearing edges when sanding , no over sanding .Those look good.
Thank you.Thanks . The first thing you want to do s tape off the Inlay with 4” strips of blue / frog tape ( you will control the tape lines better with shorter lengths ) . Don’t be temped to use a electric palm sander , hand sand the hoops only . It will take you a little while and patience is required but by hand sanding you will control the evenness of the maple . Use 2” square 100 grit paper folded in half . Do the interior of the hoop first , then the outer flats , then the bearing edges , then the inlay area with the inlay edges last . I did each hoop in a couple of hours . Get all the dust off and use Mineral spirits wiping down entire hoop , it will dry fast . Place the hoop upright between two horses or whatever when finishing , don’t finish coat on the flat . After 20 minutes you can turn the hoop and keep spraying . I start on the inside first and work out . Don’t spray to far up the hoop on the inside or you’ll have runs . (1) 2X Rustoleum Gray or black primer . (2) High Performance Flat Black Rustoleum and 2X Rustoleum Clear Satin . I did 3 coats of clear . Those hoops will take abuse and still look good . Hard finish . Let the coats dry thoroughly for a day in between coats inside . Also , when sanding don’t try and sand the nicks completely out . Look at the picture of my hoop sanded , you’ll see where the claws were . Just sand over them you won’t or will barely see them when you are done . Trying to get them completely out will damage your hoop . Say with the profiles of your bearing edges when sanding , no over sanding .
I forgot , you aren’t doing the inlays ….. no sanding there , just tape . Any time .Thank you.
Misunderstood , don’t do any finish coating with the hoop laying on the flat . Also the reason I think it’s a better finish then the factory is that they have to thin out all their finishes running through spray guns . Coming straight out of spray cans it’s thicker .Why do you not finish coat the flat side or did I misunderstand something?
ThanksMisunderstood , don’t do any finish coating with the hoop laying on the flat . Also the reason I think it’s a better finish then the factory is that they have to thin out all their finishes running through spray guns . Coming straight out of spray cans it’s thicker .
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My recipe...remove inlay, glue cracks if any w/Titebond & clamp overnite, palm sander 220 or so, hand sand 320, paint a few coats of semi-gloss LAQUER (not enamel), re-install inlay w/30nf contact cement (apply w/artist brush), done. Protect from clamps (bass pedal, cowbell/cymbal clamps, etc) with Velcro patch.
Camaro....those were from my first drumkit, early 60's Kent, still in the family today and were in storage for 40+ years and in various stages of disrepair. Brought 'em back to life a while back, mostly heavy disassembly, cleanup and recut edges....some additional pics are here of the process, may help you some...Looks good.