patrickwitherow
Very well Known Member
I’m about to restore my hoops as well. Did you follow any certain steps to complete yours? I’m trying to see if flat black would look good and what brand spray paint if that matters.
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Best Advice For Adhesive For Pearl Inlay On Bass Drum Hoop
- Thread starter Mabel3Thumbs
- Start date
DBT
Very well Known Member
This is the combination I used , came out a very durable finish . Primer I used gray only because they didn’t have any black , black would be preferable though . Use the flat high performance flat enamel ( hardens like a rock ) . Then you have a choice in clear : Flat, Matte, Satin , Semi Gloss or Gloss . I did mine in Satin but everyone is different . Everything is fast drying . Rustoleum all the way , it does make a difference .
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Probably late to the party but I use 3M 30NF to glue inlays to hoops. For painting black hoops I use spray cans of black lacquer. The original paint at the factory was lacquer (dries the fastest) so that's what I use. Most decent hardware stores still will carry lacquer in spray cans in clear (good for natural finsh hoops), white, and black.
I used Rustoleum 2x (paint and primer). Now I wished I had known to use the lacquer. Definitely use the gray primer it makes a difference. And definitely do all of your patching at the beginning, and then primer on top of that. I made the mistake of thinking that since the black paint had paint and primer all in one that I could patch one or two paint drips after I had started laying down the layers of black. Don’t do that: the surface won’t match and there will always be a difference in the way that the patch catches the light. I had my patches sanded smooth and I can still pick them out because they werent all done at the same time (with all of the same layers of primer paint on top of the layers).
I ended up using satin paint as opposed to gloss. It looks good. I am putting the final coats on today. Let it dry for a few days and then a clear coat.
If I was to this again I could do a better job just because I have a better feel for how to spray more evenly. Other than that I am very pleased.
I ended up using satin paint as opposed to gloss. It looks good. I am putting the final coats on today. Let it dry for a few days and then a clear coat.
If I was to this again I could do a better job just because I have a better feel for how to spray more evenly. Other than that I am very pleased.
patrickwitherow
Very well Known Member
Thank you! So you spray the primer (after sanding), then the enamel, then the clear.
DBT
Very well Known Member
Yes . After sanding vaccum the dust off then use mineral spirits with a micro fiber cloth to get the fine dust off . Let dry off and you’re good to go . Don’t do the spraying with the hoops on the flat , you’ll get runs . Stand them up between two horses or whatever and spray what you can then wait a 1/2 hour , turn them up and hit the rest . Tip: when you’re spraying the insides standing up don’t spray up the hoop to far or again you’ll get runs . Runs are inevitable . Let them dry if it happens and fine sand them then touch up before proceeding .
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I wish I knew not to spray the hoops on the flat to avoid runs. The guy in the YouTube video sprayed flat so I did too. I did get a few runs but overall a bunch of light coats prevented running paint. When I got a little bit impatient and tried to go back over an area too soon is when a few runs appeared.
So now I have a new problem. what does everyone use to clamp down the inlay? The clothes pins aren’t quite long enough. I am using frog tape, but is there a better method? And how do you spread the glue in the 1/2” channel. I am using a piece of foam on a stick that I found in the paint section of Home Depot but that leaves a little too much for my happiness.
So now I have a new problem. what does everyone use to clamp down the inlay? The clothes pins aren’t quite long enough. I am using frog tape, but is there a better method? And how do you spread the glue in the 1/2” channel. I am using a piece of foam on a stick that I found in the paint section of Home Depot but that leaves a little too much for my happiness.
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DBT
Very well Known Member
Glue Brush .
The best thing I found to apply the glue to the inlay channel was a Q-tip. It allowed me to spread the glue evenly and remove excess glue. The foam wedge on a stick from Home Depot was not good. Not good at all. Let’s not even talk about it.
Clamping was accomplished by just using the 1/2” tape after I made sure to wipe any excess glue off of the strip. We will see how all of this worked later tonight or tomorrow.
The learning curve was how much glue to apply (less than you think) and then spread it around evenly. I am glad I used water based glue that cleans up with a damp cloth. It doesn’t grab hold as fast but for a beginner like me it was more forgiving of any last minute adjustments.
Oh, and the biggest lesson of all was that there was a very thin plastic layer on top of the strips that needed to be peeled off. I figured that out only by mistake.
Clamping was accomplished by just using the 1/2” tape after I made sure to wipe any excess glue off of the strip. We will see how all of this worked later tonight or tomorrow.
The learning curve was how much glue to apply (less than you think) and then spread it around evenly. I am glad I used water based glue that cleans up with a damp cloth. It doesn’t grab hold as fast but for a beginner like me it was more forgiving of any last minute adjustments.
Oh, and the biggest lesson of all was that there was a very thin plastic layer on top of the strips that needed to be peeled off. I figured that out only by mistake.
The hoops are finally finished and I am very pleased. Thank you for all of the very good advice from so many people. I put it to good use on this project and it made a difference.
When I first got the hoops they looked like they had been rolled down three miles of gravel road and then beaten with the ugly stick. After some wood filler, and sanding they aren’t pristine but they look like they belong on a kit from 1967.
The final clear coat of satin really brought the look up a notch. I am a happy lady.
So far the water based glue is holding very well. For newbies like me it was a good choice.
When I first got the hoops they looked like they had been rolled down three miles of gravel road and then beaten with the ugly stick. After some wood filler, and sanding they aren’t pristine but they look like they belong on a kit from 1967.
The final clear coat of satin really brought the look up a notch. I am a happy lady.
So far the water based glue is holding very well. For newbies like me it was a good choice.
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DBT
Very well Known Member
Nice job Mabel ! Congrats and enjoy .
Lovely!
patrickwitherow
Very well Known Member
Those look amazing! What paint/spraypaint did you use and what were your steps in applying it?
I didn’t have confidence in the tape not leaking spray paint onto the inlay. I cleaned up the inlay channel and taped it carefully with 1/2” painters tape and then spent a fair amount of time sanding and filling, then applied 2 coats of primer, and then 3 coats of Rustoleum satin Canyon black. I painted the hoops while they were laying flat on a tarp, but I balanced them on 3 empty cat food cans to keep them suspended off of the tarp. After the 3 coats I inspected everything carefully for any dribbles. When I was satisfied I peeled off the painters tape and applied the inlay. Then everything got very carefully taped. The Rustoleum satin clear coat really made the hoops look like they were original.
Fun project. If I did it again I think I would have a smoother initial coat of paint. There is definitely a feel I developed for how fast to move the spray can and what angle to hold it. I wouldn’t hesitate to do this again, well worth my time and had fun while doing it.
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patrickwitherow
Very well Known Member
Thanks! I’m gathering all the needed stuff now to do this. Also waiting until I get new batter and reso heads before I start.
patrickwitherow
Very well Known Member
Today I picked up the rest of the supplies...so far I have...
Rustoleum Primer
Rustoleum Satin Black Protective Enamel
Rustoleum Satin Clear Enamel (clear coat)
220 grit sandpaper
320 grit sandpaper
Painters tape and masking tape
Strong glue to fix some spots in the inlay (one hoop just has clear scotch tape holding the ends of the inlay in place). I don't have a staple gun, so hopefully the glue will do the job.
I just did these hoops on a recent aquisition. The original hoops were severely warped so I got new hoops from Precision. 1.75" with 1/2" inlay channels. Eight coats of wipe on gloss poly (I would have used spray can black lacquer if I were going with black hoops). Inlays glued in with 3M 30NF. Turned out pretty nice.
Gorgeous!
patrickwitherow
Very well Known Member
A little progress today. Edges taped up. I cleaned the inlay up with water and Dawn with a soft microfiber cloth. They were pretty grimy. They look much better now. Also cleaned up what appeared to be a few cigarette burns. To know where the drums have been over the past 70+ years…
Tomorrow I’ll glue the inlay down
Tomorrow I’ll glue the inlay down
