Very well Known Member
- Dec 31, 2005
- Reaction score
I never did this before but I just used my sears auto buffer to clean a nasty looking cymbal and the results are astonding. They look better than my new cybmals.
I'm sure they look, uhh, fabulous...How do they sound? Generally, the heat generated by buffing causes significant changes to molecular strutcure of the alloy, altering the sound, usually in undesireable ways...Because of this, buffing this way is usually avoided like the plague by those who value the sonic properties of their cymbals...carl1969 said:I never did this before but I just used my sears auto buffer to clean a nasty looking cymbal and the results are astonding. They look better than my new cybmals.
Gee, I have used Simple Green on boats and it is a great cleaner, never tried it because I have a bottle of S100 on the shelf where I clean my cymbals. I'll have to try it some time, although I've never seen anything that would strip dirt and grease like the S100. It's my favorite hand cleaner, as a quick spritz and a rub together quickly cleans the worst dirt(brake dust and fluid or diesel engine oil), even under my fingernails.mlayton said:jim
if you like the s100 cleaner, try some simple green. buy the concentrate and cut it like you want. i used to detail harleys on the side and loved s100. but love simple green even more and its a lot lot cheaper. can get it at lowes.
You'd need serious pressure, a hard wheel and industrial abrasives to generate enough power to do any damage. Cymbal polish and a lambs wool buffer will just remove dirt and oxides.Coelacanth said:I don't think aggressive buffing is a great idea. The cymbal's original surface has microscopic pores, ridges, valleys, etc. and aggressive buffing will remove all those microscopic surface features and smooth down the metal somewhat. While certainly this results in a shinier surface, it's going beyond cleaning and actually removing the original bronze.