Does anyone own a New Rogers Wood Dynasonic Snare Drum? What are your thoughts?

1988fxlr

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Brief hijack, but not worth its own thread. Do any of you know if the mufflers for the new rogers are a direct swap with Cleveland era? Thanks
 

GMFrancis

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Ive got the WMP reissue and really like it. IMO definitely not a one for big , heavy hitters. It sounds great just on 2&4 but it’s not the loudest wood snare I’ve got. Having said that there’s a lot more to it, it’s very responsive , has a nice pop on the rimshots and seems to keep its character as you play harder into it.
The only caveat was it took me longer to get it sounding the way I wanted which I put down to getting used to a different snare mechanism.
 

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hsosdrum

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How is the Dyna for brushwork?
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but I don't use wire brushes so I can't say how the Dyna plays with them. But I will say this: It's the only snare drum that's sensitive enough for me to play very softly with my fingers and still hear the snares against the bottom head (without having to adjust anything), so I imagine it plays beautifully with brushes.
 

GMFrancis

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How is the Dyna for brushwork?
I’m the same I’m afraid, so no real input from me. I play brushes once during our set and saying “play” is an overstatement. Its strange to think back in the day (40 years ago!) I would do half the set on brushes. Use it or lose it.
 

Seb77

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I spent some time with both a 5"(?) and 6.5" at a shop (great they had them in stock). My feeling about the snare mechanism is that to adjust the wires to a different tuning, you need to adjust both screws just right, and it ends up sounding not much different from a simple strainer/wires/beds combination that is more forgiveable. Rimshots sound very nice, which makes me think shell/edge/hoop work together well.
 

evolving_machine

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I know this is an older thread, but I did not think what I am writing deserves a new thread.

I was looking for a new wooden snare drum. But, it was hard for me to find other snare drums in and about the Rogers Dynasonic price range in order to make a comparison in person.

I am living in New Jersey, and except for going into Manhattan, the local stores do not have many quality wood snare drums on display for me to compare the Rogers to. So I recently took a road trip to the drum center in Portsmouth NH, and was able to compare other quality snare drums to the Danasonic. It's a good store, only wish it was closer. But I lucked out, and the weather was not bad for my trip. I looked at some Nobel and Cooley, Gretsch, and Canopus. My price limit was the Nobel and Cooley solid shell.

I liked the sound of the other three brands of drums, but not really good enough to push me into the purchase. The Rogers was unique in that the area to which I can play the batter head and still get a strong snare sound was much larger. The Gretsch was the second best, but the snares stopped activating within an inch and a half from the rim. The other drums had a much smaller circle where the snares activated. However, the Rogers activated the snares all the way to the rim. Its a tricky thing to make the size of the snare bed for the width of the snare wires and the drum to have them activate. The Rogers also comes with the internal muffler which is more practical for me. I use my wallet at times on other snare drums, but the wallet walks around the drums sometimes and there is the chance that I may leave the wallet on the drums when I take a break.
The Rogers tunes high and the 6.5 depth gives a little more lower tones to the sound. I own two chrome Dynasonics one in 5" depth and the other in 6.5" depth. I know how to use them with the snare cage. I think the Dynasonic is a good compromise for me.

Thank you everyone at Drum Center of Portsmouth for you patience.
 

K.O.

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I just got a used one of the new Dynas this past Monday ( a 5" red sparkle). I bought it used from a DFOer. Tried it out for the first time at band practice last night and it sounded fine but I haven't tried to change anything on it and played it as the previous owner had it set up. It has a Remo logo head on it so I'm assuming it's not the original head. I'll be pulling the head to re orient it (logo is in the 6 oclock position when set to my preference on the stand and that just bugs me LOL) so we'll see where I end up with it for tuning after that.

It's a beautifully made drum. Whether it becomes one of my "go-to" snares remains to be seen but it certainly has potential.
 

evolving_machine

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I just got a used one of the new Dynas this past Monday ( a 5" red sparkle). I bought it used from a DFOer. Tried it out for the first time at band practice last night and it sounded fine but I haven't tried to change anything on it and played it as the previous owner had it set up. It has a Remo logo head on it so I'm assuming it's not the original head. I'll be pulling the head to re orient it (logo is in the 6 oclock position when set to my preference on the stand and that just bugs me LOL) so we'll see where I end up with it for tuning after that.

It's a beautifully made drum. Whether it becomes one of my "go-to" snares remains to be seen but it certainly has potential.
K.O. mine have Remo heads on it now, I will eventually put Aquarian Modern Vintage on it. I have Modern Vintage on my chrome Dynasonic's and most of my other drums. I got the 6.5" deep white marine pearl. The logo for the head is 180 degrees off from what I normally set it to. I like my snare controls on the left side.
 

K.O.

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K.O. mine have Remo heads on it now, I will eventually put Aquarian Modern Vintage on it. I have Modern Vintage on my chrome Dynasonic's and most of my other drums. I got the 6.5" deep white marine pearl. The logo for the head is 180 degrees off from what I normally set it to. I like my snare controls on the left side.
I like the throw off at 9 oclock and the logo at 12oclock with the throw in that position. I tend to prefer the head logo to be on the point farthest away from me on snares and toms. It shouldn't be a big deal, or really make ANY difference, yet it bugged me all during practice :) .

It's the little things in life that matter the most.
 

hsosdrum

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I like the throw off at 9 oclock and the logo at 12oclock with the throw in that position. I tend to prefer the head logo to be on the point farthest away from me on snares and toms. It shouldn't be a big deal, or really make ANY difference, yet it bugged me all during practice :) .

It's the little things in life that matter the most.
When I had Pro Drum Shop install the calfskin head on my Dyna they aligned it so that the Stern Tanning logo was directly next to the strainer's butt end, 180° from the throw-off. At the moment I have the drum oriented with the throw-off at 1 o'clock and the butt at 7 o'clock.

I guess head logo placement doesn't bug me. (It certainly doesn't bug me enough that I'm willing to wet-down the head, remove it, re-orient it and re-seat it to form a new collar.)
 

K.O.

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When I had Pro Drum Shop install the calfskin head on my Dyna they aligned it so that the Stern Tanning logo was directly next to the strainer's butt end, 180° from the throw-off. At the moment I have the drum oriented with the throw-off at 1 o'clock and the butt at 7 o'clock.

I guess head logo placement doesn't bug me. (It certainly doesn't bug me enough that I'm willing to wet-down the head, remove it, re-orient it and re-seat it to form a new collar.)
If I were in a similar situation I'd also just leave it alone (and deal with the internal trauma).
 

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I set the head logo so it is at 12 o'clock on my snare drums and set the throw off at 8 o'clock. Having the head logo at the 12 position just makes it easier to set up the drum on the stand.
 

evolving_machine

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As far as the snare buzz when the snare is off, I had to make an adjustment. The butt side of the snare, had the ends of the chords wrapped around the screws. So instead of the chord coming in from the bottom and exiting on the top of the butt plate, they wrapped the chords around the screws and so the chords exited on the bottom. The did not leave enough slack for the chord to the butt plate. So, I had to undo the wrap around the screws and then lowered the butt end of the cage so that I would not have snare buzz when the snares are off.
 


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