Gear matching of everything here as well but if I'm taking drums myself in my SUV there's no cases. I tried just the hardware case but even that seemed like more work than it's worth. If I use the band trailer everything gets cases.When a drummer loads into a show without cases it drives me absolutely insane. It's your instrument, take care of it!
I also have a weird thing with gear matching. I have all redesigned Zildjian A's right now, all Yamaha hardware and all Remo heads.
I suppose I could be bothered by this...IF I understood it...!My latest quirk is my latest theory about drum size relationships.
A while back I surmised that there was some kind of "ideal" ratio between the diameter and the depth of a tom and a good setup would be a grouping of different sized toms that all shared that ratio, but I could never get it to work out...right.
Then I hit on the notion of that its not just depth vs diameter, but all dimensions combined!
So these days, I work tom setups as a matter of percentages, based on established tom setups....mainly, the 12/14 and 13/16 combo's. Probably the two oldest and most used tom combo's in the history of drumming....this also means they're the tom setups we're MOST familiar with.
This means, regardless of the sizes used, the pairing will always have a "familiar feel" to it, because they share the same percentage of size that the combo's I listed above have.
So here's how this works...you determine the volume of the two toms, then determine the percentage of volume the smaller tom has, compared to the larger tom....follow me?
So, for instance, the 12x8 / 14x14 combo. The floor tom displaces 2155.1376 cu.in. (based on the listed depth and diameter of the drum). The rack tom displaces 904.7808 cu.in.
So the relationship between the two toms would be expressed as the rack tom being about 42% of the volume of the floor tom (and, just to shorthand this, the 13/16 combo has about a 37% relationship).
So if we hold to the range of those two tom combo's (approx. 35-45%), we can determine all kinds of "odd-ball" tom combo's that we've never heard before and stand a reasonable chance of having something that will work surprisingly well over a wide range of music (or just one type, if that's your thing).
….anyway, that's my current hang-up.
I switched to Regal Tip 2B's . This is a really thick heavy hickory stick that responds well to most any dynamic or touch . So ,for example I can get a focused articulation from a lighter ride even when I lighten up on the attack . I can pull the sound out of the cymbal and be the boss . Don't force it , use a bigger hammer sort of thing .What did you change? That sounds like an easy cymbal fix!
Your last comment is me.Pretty normal stuff, have to have the logos on t he drum heads at the 12:00 o'clock position, I like my logos on my Zildjian K's and try not to play right on the logo to keep from wearing them off. Biggest issue on the hi hat as it seems to spin right to where the K is under stick, oh well maybe it will cure me. Sticks if one feels heavier than the other it's got to be in my left hand
Agree with you on those older "A" Zildjians -- I've still got two:Preferences bordering on obsessions.......(1) Snare drums that match the brand and wrap of the drum set. Two exceptions are a chrome Powertone and Blackro as back up snares. (2) Wrapped drums--not exposed wood shells. The exception to unwrapped shells would be Duco two tone paint jobs. (3) All cymbals are Avedis Zildjians from the 1930's to early 1970's. During this time, all A Zildjians were of top quality. Their lower quality cymbals were marketed under other brand names. (4) All mounted toms are actually mounted to the bass drum.
Well, you own kits that have good matching snares. Sometimes, the snare is the weak link and that fact becomes ingrained in our preferences. I don't have a problem with matching snares as long as they are awesome!I really like matching snares. All my kits are set up with matching snares, even though I have nice non matching snares on hand.
I refinished an Export kit for the very reason to not need cases. The wrap was beat up so I pulled the wrap and stained/finished the bare wood. It's a cheap kit I've had for 15 years, so when it's too beat up again, I'll just re-wrap it or stain it darker. I had two reasons to do this: one is I needed an "all-weather" kit where I don't have to worry about a wrap bubbling from the sun, since we play a majority of our gigs outside, and two is when I drive our singer I often don't get much time to set up since he's always running late, so I need my setup to be as easy/quick as possible. I carefully load them on my rock-n-roller so they don't get bashed around.And though I don't consider it an OCD thing, I hate watching someone load in drums that aren't in cases, along with cymbals already on the stands but again, no cases. I know people have beater gear and all, but to me - stuff just holds up longer if you take the most basic precautions of using cases.