Drumming quirks, hangups

Mcjnic

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All of the above and WAY too many more to print here ... but I'm self-realized enough to seek help. I am extremely excited to report that after 12 long years of 3's and 2's with one of the best in the practice ... I can allow a different brand cymbal to reside on a stand. Obviously, I don't actually hit it, but it's there on that stand ... mocking me.
 

W&A Player

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Preferences bordering on obsessions.......(1) Snare drums that match the brand and wrap of the drum set. Two exceptions are a chrome Powertone and Blackro as back up snares. (2) Wrapped drums--not exposed wood shells. The exception to unwrapped shells would be Duco two tone paint jobs. (3) All cymbals are Avedis Zildjians from the 1930's to early 1970's. During this time, all A Zildjians were of top quality. Their lower quality cymbals were marketed under other brand names. (4) All mounted toms are actually mounted to the bass drum.
 

flamthrower

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When a drummer loads into a show without cases it drives me absolutely insane. It's your instrument, take care of it!

I also have a weird thing with gear matching. I have all redesigned Zildjian A's right now, all Yamaha hardware and all Remo heads.
Gear matching of everything here as well but if I'm taking drums myself in my SUV there's no cases. I tried just the hardware case but even that seemed like more work than it's worth. If I use the band trailer everything gets cases.
 

xsabers

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My latest quirk is my latest theory about drum size relationships.
A while back I surmised that there was some kind of "ideal" ratio between the diameter and the depth of a tom and a good setup would be a grouping of different sized toms that all shared that ratio, but I could never get it to work out...right.
Then I hit on the notion of that its not just depth vs diameter, but all dimensions combined! :idea1:
So these days, I work tom setups as a matter of percentages, based on established tom setups....mainly, the 12/14 and 13/16 combo's. Probably the two oldest and most used tom combo's in the history of drumming....this also means they're the tom setups we're MOST familiar with.
This means, regardless of the sizes used, the pairing will always have a "familiar feel" to it, because they share the same percentage of size that the combo's I listed above have.
So here's how this works...you determine the volume of the two toms, then determine the percentage of volume the smaller tom has, compared to the larger tom....follow me?
So, for instance, the 12x8 / 14x14 combo. The floor tom displaces 2155.1376 cu.in. (based on the listed depth and diameter of the drum). The rack tom displaces 904.7808 cu.in.
So the relationship between the two toms would be expressed as the rack tom being about 42% of the volume of the floor tom (and, just to shorthand this, the 13/16 combo has about a 37% relationship).
So if we hold to the range of those two tom combo's (approx. 35-45%), we can determine all kinds of "odd-ball" tom combo's that we've never heard before and stand a reasonable chance of having something that will work surprisingly well over a wide range of music (or just one type, if that's your thing).
….anyway, that's my current hang-up.
I suppose I could be bothered by this...IF I understood it...!
 

Murat

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I do not have many quirks but there is one thing I cannot look at: A double bass set with port holes on the same position on each bass drum ! Nooo, my eyeeees ! One has to be on 4 and the other at 8 ! They have to be symmetrical on opposite sides :)
 

BennyK

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Other people's rides always seem better than mine .

After a lifetime of chasing after their " thing " I accidentally changed sticks and believe it or not that seems to be the answer .

For now .
 

BennyK

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What did you change? That sounds like an easy cymbal fix!
I switched to Regal Tip 2B's . This is a really thick heavy hickory stick that responds well to most any dynamic or touch . So ,for example I can get a focused articulation from a lighter ride even when I lighten up on the attack . I can pull the sound out of the cymbal and be the boss . Don't force it , use a bigger hammer sort of thing .
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Logos at 12 (lined up with the badge) - all Remo coated ambassadors! Generally, the same drum/tom setup and angles. I vary sizes (12/14/20, 12/14/18, 13/16/20, 13/16/22). I prefer all drums (sans snare) to be the same kit/color but I have gigged with a silver kit and oddball BDP FT - but I didn't like looking like a non-pro hack with a cobbled kit. Snares don't need to match the kit but that's cool if it does - the sound is key.

I used to do a 100% Zildjian setup and all the same (back in the day, all A Customs, last 10+ years all K Cons) but I have many other cymbals and do mix and match. My current gig setup is mismatched Zildjian hats (K top; new beat top on bottom), Soultone crash as a left ride, either K Con medium ride or Bosphorus traditional ride as main ride, and a Dream crash/ride as right crash. I like only Protection Racket padded bags. I prefer strings to affix my snare wires (not plastic straps or ribbon). Hardware varies but I do like a DW 5000 bass pedal. Cymbal stands - as long as they don't tip over. My gigging HH stand is a 20+ year old Tama - it's a tank!

Probably many others but I just don't think about it......it's normal to me!

But my suitcase kit purposefully has every possible mismatched setup - 4 drums all different, misc. parts/pieces, a splash and a cracked crash as a ride (but it was a K, and now was stolen!), and misc beat up heads! That's what makes it so dang cool!
 

shuffle

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Pretty normal stuff, have to have the logos on t he drum heads at the 12:00 o'clock position, I like my logos on my Zildjian K's and try not to play right on the logo to keep from wearing them off. Biggest issue on the hi hat as it seems to spin right to where the K is under stick, oh well maybe it will cure me. Sticks if one feels heavier than the other it's got to be in my left hand
Your last comment is me.
If the sticks are slightly different, the heavier one goes to my right hand,Im a lefty
Even a banana,right hand.
 

Nacci

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I’d be horrified at a snare without a coated head and I’ve never picked up a brush in my life.
 

Bandit

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Drum badges must face outwards towards the viewer/audience. Rack tubes can't run in front of drums. Drummers in rock bands that use four piece, or smaller kits.
 

VintageUSA

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Preferences bordering on obsessions.......(1) Snare drums that match the brand and wrap of the drum set. Two exceptions are a chrome Powertone and Blackro as back up snares. (2) Wrapped drums--not exposed wood shells. The exception to unwrapped shells would be Duco two tone paint jobs. (3) All cymbals are Avedis Zildjians from the 1930's to early 1970's. During this time, all A Zildjians were of top quality. Their lower quality cymbals were marketed under other brand names. (4) All mounted toms are actually mounted to the bass drum.
Agree with you on those older "A" Zildjians -- I've still got two:
22" Heavy ride and a 16" thin crash, both from 1973.............excellent.
The rest of that stuff, I go the opposite:
All my shells are natural wood finishes -- the only drum I've ever owned with a wrap was a maple Slingy snare that I wrapped myself (conventional silver sparkle).
I have no mounted toms on the bass drum.
And.........I don't ever use a matching snare.
 

Bandit

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I really like matching snares. All my kits are set up with matching snares, even though I have nice non matching snares on hand.
 

xsabers

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I really like matching snares. All my kits are set up with matching snares, even though I have nice non matching snares on hand.
Well, you own kits that have good matching snares. Sometimes, the snare is the weak link and that fact becomes ingrained in our preferences. I don't have a problem with matching snares as long as they are awesome!
 

TheBeachBoy

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And though I don't consider it an OCD thing, I hate watching someone load in drums that aren't in cases, along with cymbals already on the stands but again, no cases. I know people have beater gear and all, but to me - stuff just holds up longer if you take the most basic precautions of using cases.
I refinished an Export kit for the very reason to not need cases. The wrap was beat up so I pulled the wrap and stained/finished the bare wood. It's a cheap kit I've had for 15 years, so when it's too beat up again, I'll just re-wrap it or stain it darker. I had two reasons to do this: one is I needed an "all-weather" kit where I don't have to worry about a wrap bubbling from the sun, since we play a majority of our gigs outside, and two is when I drive our singer I often don't get much time to set up since he's always running late, so I need my setup to be as easy/quick as possible. I carefully load them on my rock-n-roller so they don't get bashed around.

Now my cymbals are all vintage 50's thru early 70's, so they get bagged no matter what.
 


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