Filling holes in Bass Drum Shell

K.O.

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Here's a fiberglass repair. It's strong enough that you can drill it for whatever new mount you want to install.

In this case this Slingerland bass drum had been drilled for a Ludwig base plate with a ginormously too big hole and now I've filled that hole and set it up for the correct Set-O-Matic base.

IMG_4110.JPG
 

pedro navahas

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Here's a fiberglass repair. It's strong enough that you can drill it for whatever new mount you want to install.

In this case this Slingerland bass drum had been drilled for a Ludwig base plate with a ginormously too big hole and now I've filled that hole and set it up for the correct Set-O-Matic base.

View attachment 485895
That’s a good idea, better than bondo!
 

michaelg

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Here's a fiberglass repair. It's strong enough that you can drill it for whatever new mount you want to install.

In this case this Slingerland bass drum had been drilled for a Ludwig base plate with a ginormously too big hole and now I've filled that hole and set it up for the correct Set-O-Matic base.

View attachment 485895
Did you buy the fibreglass premixed with resin ?
 

K.O.

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Did you buy the fibreglass premixed with resin ?
It's a fiberglass kit from walmart in the automotive section. You get the resin, hardening catalyst, and fiberglass cloth. I also bought a packet of fiberglass matte as it is thicker and fills the hole quicker. You mix the resin and catalyst then dip the pieces of glass fiber into the resin and place them in the hole. The resin starts to set up in about 5-10 minutes (depending on how much catalyst you added, too much and it can start to harden right away) so that's your window to get the cloth/matte in place. It will fully set up in about an hour.

I use masking tape along the outside of the shell to form my "mold" then apply the FG from the inside. Generally this will result in the outer surface of the fiberglass patch needing little or no sanding and will match the contour of the shell (masking tape is applied across the shell in thin strips perpendicular to the open ends). I pre-cut the fiberglass matte into circles that match the size of the hole then dip and stack them one by one until the hole is filled. You'll probably have to do some sanding inside the shell but this won't be seen. In the case of the drum in the picture, which had the biggest hole I've yet filled by this method, one piece of the masking tape popped loose and let some resin leak onto the shell so I did have to do some sanding there. Generally this has not been a problem on the other drums I've done (usually filling a 1" hole left from a Ludwig modular mount). I've had good results using this method and have yet to notice it effecting the sound in any way.
 

thebeebe5

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thebeebe5: I just wanted to tell you that your repair job on that playboy shell was INCREDIBLE. Just amazing woodwork. Congrats!
Why, thank you! Literally no idea what I was doing, but the drum was important to me so I tried to cook up a perfect plan well before starting.
 

bodinski

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I've used Elmer's Damaged Wood to fill holes in drums, unwanted button holes in an arcade panel, a jacked up exterior windowsill & also rotten exterior decorative beams. Great stuff. Easy to use, reasonable working time & thus far, lasting results.
 

idrum4fun

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I purchased this 1965 Slingerland Modern Solo outfit back in September. Every drum has been disassembled and waiting to be brought back to life. All the lug holes on the batter side of the bass drum have been ruined by what appears to be extreme tension over the years. How in the world does this happen?!! What's the best way for me to fill these holes? Once done, I'll re-drill for the lugs.

-Mark
 

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achin225

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If I am keeping the wrap for small holes I will use a dowel to keep the wood filler below the wrap. Level with a putty knife inside. When dry fill outside gap with epoxy and a tint color to match the wrap. For larger holes I just tap it down to get below the wrap. Sand and aluminum paint on the inside.
 


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