Finish options...

cutaway79

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I'm thinking about having some drums refinished. My first thought was to go with either matte white, or matte black paint. Then I saw INDe's Reso Armor finishes (which they, unfortunately, yet understandably, don't offer on drums that aren't their own), and it got me wondering... What other non-wrap finishes are available that the drumming world may not know about? I'm (personally) looking for something that's really durable, not a wrap, and not crazy expensive (though I know this kinda stuff ain't cheap).

Anybody have any "outside the box" ideas?
 

Pimp-a-diddle

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I do indeed sir, I do indeed; Wilsonart laminates. There are some other companies that make laminates as well, but Wilsonart is of the highest quality.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Matte paint alone won't be durable without a coating - what did you have in mind? Do plan on doing it alone or hiring a wood worker/cabinet person to finish? What finish is on the drums now?

If you have any ability at all and basic tools (trust me, I hardly did!), you can get Citrustrip from Home Depot and scrape off the old finish leaving hopefully bare shells, then sand them down, and paint over them. You could then do a satin finish of poly (or multiple coats) which would give it some durability, but will lose the matte finish (although it will still be more dull than semi-gloss or gloss).
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Pimp - Well - I will check out the laminate - wonder what that costs and if they will get you custom cut sheets versus having to cut your own? Also, how do you apply it (glue?)? Any pics of drums you've done?

Are these like those firm laminate samples you can see and get for free at the Home Depot kitchen dept.? If so, I don't see how they will stay put and will add weight and also, mostly are granite-type colors.....but it is very interesting....please enlighten!
 

cutaway79

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The drums are all orphans (same series, different finishes) that I initially had wrapped to match, with the intention of getting a "nice" finish done in the future. I would likely have the painting done by a professional, unless it's something easily done with minimal equipment.

I'd like to avoid laminates if possible. I'm mainly curious if there's any kind of really durable paint-on finish out there that is maybe flying under the radar.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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cutaway79

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Maybe a gloss paint. I don't think matte will be as durable. Higher sheen = higher shine = most durable. You could also mix poly into paint to give it an oil-based type of finish that would be hard (I don't think they still have oil based paint???). Also, Krylon makes a black industrial spray paint that seems durable:

https://www.zoro.com/krylon-industr...MIm5_krYjf3wIVhaDsCh3D0QUFEAQYBSABEgJaKvD_BwE
I'll definitely apply (or have it applied by a pro) some kind of clear over whatever paint I use, for a little added protection.

Is there anything available out there like an epoxy or something that would work well?
 

cutaway79

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I know, I know, I want it all, haha... But after seeing how durable the Reso Armor paint (or whatever it is) is, it got me thinking that maybe there's some kind of finish option out there that I'm not considering.
 

jccabinets

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I saw my name mentioned so thought I better chime in. For a painted finish I have used M.L. Campbells stealth,,
https://www.mlcampbell.com/product/stealth-pigmented/
This needs to be done by a professional but it would be a very durable finish. I did a Hayman kit years ago for Dana Bently, owner of Bentlys drum shop in Fresno Ca. He was going for the Alice Cooper blue color( or what ever its called) I think he picked a Sherwin Williams color. I can produce any M.L. Campbell, Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore color, so should any other cabinet maker. Hope this helps!
Hayman kit 1.jpg
 

cutaway79

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I saw my name mentioned so thought I better chime in. For a painted finish I have used M.L. Campbells stealth,,
https://www.mlcampbell.com/product/stealth-pigmented/
This needs to be done by a professional but it would be a very durable finish. I did a Hayman kit years ago for Dana Bently, owner of Bentlys drum shop in Fresno Ca. He was going for the Alice Cooper blue color( or what ever its called) I think he picked a Sherwin Williams color. I can produce any M.L. Campbell, Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore color, so should any other cabinet maker. Hope this helps! View attachment 383226
Interesting! I've never heard of that stuff. Definitely going to look into it a bit more. This is exactly the kind of stuff I came here for. Thanks!
 

JazzDrumGuy

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A-ha! I recognize that carpet! Anyway, that product JC mentioned is a varnish - that should be stronger than poly. I am thinking maybe a marines/par varnish which in theory is pretty durable to withstand ocean/moisture situations may be the best bet......but I'm not sure.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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I found this online but this paint is very glossy:

The hardest paint that is available to most homeowners is an epoxy modified alkyd paint. These are most commonly found in aerosol spray cans. After these paints cure, they typically have a harder finish than you could obtain with an oil or water based paint that is brushed on. Spraying paint is an art. Sags and runs are possible if you are not careful. Areas adjacent to the cabinets must be meticulously protected from paint overspray. Fumes can be a problem as well.

There is also tractor paint but that is glossy black, too:

https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4431...ocphy=9031895&hvtargid=pla-570111833269&psc=1
 

Fat Drummer

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LOL! Like JC, I heard my name mentioned as well... While I sell the competing brand to his M.L. Campbell (I sell Gemini) I agree totally, one of the premier brand conversion varnishes is the ticket if going for a solid color and you can have any color you can dream up and the sheen you prefer.

As for laminate, Pimp-a-diddle mentioned Wilsonart (and again, I sell the competing brand of Formica) but this could be a fun option as the amount of design options (and even finish and sheen options) is remarkable...also both brands offer an extremely thin version (refereed to as vertical post forming grade) that is only .027" (.7mm) thick so it's easy to work and apply's easily with spray contact glue.

So their are a few cool options out there outside the norm, I prefer to work in thin wood veneers and finish that but both of these option could be pretty neat. But lets be honest, it's going to be hard to beat that cool ResoArmor finish Josh has developed!

Good luck with your project and keep us posted!
Ward
 

Pimp-a-diddle

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Pimp - Well - I will check out the laminate - wonder what that costs and if they will get you custom cut sheets versus having to cut your own? Also, how do you apply it (glue?)? Any pics of drums you've done?

Are these like those firm laminate samples you can see and get for free at the Home Depot kitchen dept.? If so, I don't see how they will stay put and will add weight and also, mostly are granite-type colors.....but it is very interesting....please enlighten!
Thanks. A little background. My use of the product is related to the company I work for which makes stainless steel kitchen equipment( tables, shelves, cabinets, dish tables etc. ). We are a stainless steel fabricator and sometimes the client wants a laminate finish on the exterior of what is usually a large serving counter. This has become pretty standard in the industry. The material itself has a lightly textured finish which is pretty cool, and the underside is composed of wood laminate which gives it its structural integrity.
We use contact cement to apply it to stainless, though Wilsonart DOES have proprietary adhesives available which are designed for specific applications. The sheets are custom ordered, usually 5' tall by whatever length you want. You would of course have to break out your tape measure and figure out exactly how much you need, and probably order a little more in case you make a mistake in the setting process. Once that stuff goes on, you have a VERY short window to make micro-adjustments if you elect to go with contact cement.
Like I said, there are other companies out there and I would suggest that you look at them as well so that you can find a color or blend that suits your needs.
 

Pimp-a-diddle

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And the costs are reasonable. Generally in the same neighborhood as a good wrap.
 

Pimp-a-diddle

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LOL! Like JC, I heard my name mentioned as well... While I sell the competing brand to his M.L. Campbell (I sell Gemini) I agree totally, one of the premier brand conversion varnishes is the ticket if going for a solid color and you can have any color you can dream up and the sheen you prefer.

As for laminate, Pimp-a-diddle mentioned Wilsonart (and again, I sell the competing brand of Formica) but this could be a fun option as the amount of design options (and even finish and sheen options) is remarkable...also both brands offer an extremely thin version (refereed to as vertical post forming grade) that is only .027" (.7mm) thick so it's easy to work and apply's easily with spray contact glue.

So their are a few cool options out there outside the norm, I prefer to work in thin wood veneers and finish that but both of these option could be pretty neat. But lets be honest, it's going to be hard to beat that cool ResoArmor finish Josh has developed!

Good luck with your project and keep us posted!
Ward
And now that I think about, I may take a look at laminate myself for my next kit if I elect to go DIY.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Thanks for the info. The little Home Depot laminate samples are stiff as heck and I see no way they would bend around a shell and you'd need some majorly adhesive glue to keep them that way. I saw either Wilson or that other brand sells 4'x8' sheets but how do you cut it? Again, seems pretty difficult. Also, my concern is deadening the shell vibration with the laminate....

Hope the OP gets what he was looking for and I would like to see and hear about the final result!
 

jccabinets

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The thinner laminate that fatdrummer is referring to would be similar to the cortex finished drums,,please correct me if im wrong. As far as cutting goes, generally you cut with a table saw, adhere with contact cement then trim with a flush trim router bit, thats on a cabinet or counter top. Not sure how that works on a drum edge. Personally I think laminate would look cheep. Why not just get some nice drum wrap or veneer them. You can get veneer with adhesive already applied, you know a peel and stick, its called PSA pressure sensitive adhesive. Put that on the drum then find a good finisher to spray them for you.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Wow - PSA veneer??? I found some online - it's like $3-4/sq. ft. so about $20 per drum or so. Not bad and probably will look great....thank you, JC!
 


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