Finishing Raw Hoops with inlay from Precision

swayed1

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My plan is to finish these in a black semi gloss spray then affix the WMP inlay. Any pointers before I dig into this project?

The hoops came pre-sanded from Precision and they did a great job. My plan is just to spray a few coats of primer, then a few coats of the final black color. Carefully brush on contact cement and then attach the inlay. Am I missing anything?


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K.O.

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I was going to suggest the same thing. I mask the center of the inlay channel so there is bare wood for the inlay glue to stick to. I do paint the edges of the channel though. If it's a 1/2" channel I'll use 3/8ths" wide tape down the center. Then 3M 30-NF to glue the inlay in.
 

Redfern

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I was going to suggest the same thing. I mask the center of the inlay channel so there is bare wood for the inlay glue to stick to. I do paint the edges of the channel though. If it's a 1/2" channel I'll use 3/8ths" wide tape down the center. Then 3M 30-NF to glue the inlay in.
This all the way.
 

little rock

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There is a thread on here called Bass Hoops that walks you through the process.
 

swayed1

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There’s actually 20 pages of threads with bass hoops. I looked. Could you post a link to the thread that addresses my question? Thanks for your contribution.
There is a thread on here called Bass Hoops that walks you through the process.
 

rwm5

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What contact cement do you plan to use? Most tell you to apply a thin layer to both surfaces and let it dry/get tacky for 15min, then adhere. I’ve had good luck with that process and the DAP Wellwood brand. This is regarding repairs and reapplying inlay on vintage hoops.
 

little rock

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There’s actually 20 pages of threads with bass hoops. I looked. Could you post a link to the thread that addresses my question? Thanks for your contribution.
It's the first thread on Builders Workshop. Bass Hoops by Camaro
 

swayed1

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It's the first thread on Builders Workshop. Bass Hoops by Camaro
Indeed I saw that thread. This is my first post in the builders forum - welcome. Literally nothing about that thread applied to my question. It’s all about removing existing inlay from already finished, vintage hoops and other repair information. I swear DFO has become FB part 2. Tons of folks want to chime in from the peanut gallery with nothing to offer.
 

swayed1

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What contact cement do you plan to use? Most tell you to apply a thin layer to both surfaces and let it dry/get tacky for 15min, then adhere. I’ve had good luck with that process and the DAP Wellwood brand. This is regarding repairs and reapplying inlay on vintage hoops.

I’ve used DAP for just reattaching hoop inlays also. The results seemed good but I but the bullet and got some 3M 30-NF since I have a few larger projects on the horizon.
 

little rock

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Excuse me. I thought you were refinishing the entire hoop. Guess I misunderstood. Contact cement is quite easy to use, just follow the directions.
 

DBT

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Excuse me. I thought you were refinishing the entire hoop. Guess I misunderstood. Contact cement is quite easy to use, just follow the directions.
Thanks Little Rock you understood . The only thing my post didn’t cover was installing the veneer because he was leaving it alone . Outside of that it was explained from A to Z whether it’s a new hoop or restoration . You can lead a horse to water ….. well you know the rest .
 

swayed1

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Thanks Little Rock you understood . The only thing my post didn’t cover was installing the veneer because he was leaving it alone . Outside of that it was explained from A to Z whether it’s a new hoop or restoration . You can lead a horse to water ….. well you know the rest .

It really was just a simple question. DFO is so petty anymore. What happened here guys? This place is really starting to suck.
 

DBT

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It really was just a simple question. DFO is so petty anymore. What happened here guys? This place is really starting to suck.
Right , simple question and finishing hoops isn’t rocket science . You asked a question and he pointed you in a sound direction to answer your question . You said you looked but did you actually read it ? If you did you would have found the answer you were looking for . I’ve been a professional wood worker / finisher for 40 years and I don’t give advice if it will fail and give sub par results . Whether people want to receive that advice and run with it is up to them .
 

JazzDrumGuy

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I use flat black spray paint. It's so much easier. Few coats, maybe 2-3. Then a quick satin poly with a blue shop rag. A 2nd one is optional. For the inlay, I use regular Tite Bond wood glue (red label). I like things simple & easy. I have refinished many vintage high end drums and the hoops look great done this way.
 

varatrodder

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I use flat black spray paint. It's so much easier. Few coats, maybe 2-3. Then a quick satin poly with a blue shop rag. A 2nd one is optional. For the inlay, I use regular Tite Bond wood glue (red label). I like things simple & easy. I have refinished many vintage high end drums and the hoops look great done this way.
That's what I do too. I find it much easier to work with satin poly over flat paint, than it is to deal with satin or gloss paint. I like that I can sand the final clear coat to get a smooth surface.
 

DBT

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That's what I do too. I find it much easier to work with satin poly over flat paint, than it is to deal with satin or gloss paint. I like that I can sand the final clear coat to get a smooth surface.
Wow , reading comprehension problems . Unless you post a picture it’s fruitless to to write a step by step . This picture is what was described . (1) coat of Primer . (1) coat of FLAT black Professional and multiple coats of Satin Clear (let dry overnight in between coats . Note : you do not need more then one coat of primer and one coat of flat , all’s that’s going to do is thicken the joints in the inlay channels . Also , there is nothing wrong with priming and painting the inlay channel before taping it off for the clear coat . The primer and paint will smooth out the air pockets in the raw wood and the 3M adhesive will actually cover and stick better to the flat paint . As far as clear coats go I experimented with this , poly and lacquer on a garbage out of round hoop before making a decision and this combination blows those clear coats out of the water . Way harder , so much so that I took a gouging Awl and couldn’t scratch it .
 

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varatrodder

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Wow , reading comprehension problems . Unless you post a picture it’s fruitless to to write a step by step . This picture is what was described . (1) coat of Primer . (1) coat of FLAT black Professional and multiple coats of Satin Clear (let dry overnight in between coats . Note : you do not need more then one coat of primer and one coat of flat , all’s that’s going to do is thicken the joints in the inlay channels . Also , there is nothing wrong with priming and painting the inlay channel before taping it off for the clear coat . The primer and paint will smooth out the air pockets in the raw wood and the 3M adhesive will actually cover and stick better to the flat paint . As far as clear coats go I experimented with this , poly and lacquer on a garbage out of round hoop before making a decision and this combination blows those clear coats out of the water . Way harder , so much so that I took a gouging Awl and couldn’t scratch it .
I haven't tried the 2X clear coat. I usually just use regular polyurethane. I'll have to give that a try.
 

DBT

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I haven't tried the 2X clear coat. I usually just use regular polyurethane. I'll have to give that a try.
In the Bass Hoop threat I should have posted the pics of the cans too . Give it a shot you won’t regret it . It drys fast to the touch , if you get a drip let it dry and fine sand the drip out then hit again . 3 coats worked like a champ . Non yellowing too . Good luck .
 

JazzDrumGuy

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The flat black spray paint I use is the cheapest can from H.D., and the satin poly is Minwax. It's durable and looks perfect. Light sanding required of the hoop before paint application on a new hoop.
 


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