Help Wanted, New Snare Drum Project (Fade + Gloss Coat)

Bojangles1594

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Hello Drum Forum!
Just joined yesterday and I’m already excited to get to learn from y’all and apply that knowledge to my future projects.

I have decided to modify a snare drum I don’t use anymore. It is a Shine, Definition Birch, 14x6, in Candy Apple Red (doesn’t look like that color, but I couldn’t find any other finishes on the site that looked even close.
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Does anybody have any experience with removing this type of drum badge? I figured there may be some glue holding it in place too, but not sure what to do about the rivets. Thanks in advance for any help! I will post more photos once the badge is removed or if any members request them! I will also post a step-by-step showing how I actually completed the process!
 

Drumbumcrumb

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My technique for removing rivets is to use a (sharp) drill bit that’s JUST big enough - the same size as the collar on the rivet - and then carefully drill on one side until the collar is gone. Then the rivet can just be pushed out. I doubt there’s any glue under there. Those will be pretty easy to drill out, just go slow and steady until the collar is gone, pop off the badge, and the remainder of the rivets will fall off.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Can we get a closeup of the badge and rear? Do you want to save the badge or do you want to get rid of it? If you want to get rid of it, I suggested a Dremel with the grinding tip.
 

1988fxlr

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Does the rivet actually go through the shell to the inside of the drum or are they a decorative touch on the badge?
If they go through drumbums advice above is good. If you can’t see them inside I would suspect its just glued. Warm it up with a hair dryer and try bassanddrums sawing technique. Dental floss or fishing line would be ideal
 

Bojangles1594

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Hello everyone!
I really appreciate the feedback! I wasn't able to read everyone's reply before I removed the badge, but I did get some great tips that I think will be real helpful in future projects. I followed Drumbumcrumb and used an 1/8" bit to drill off the rivet collars.
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Once I pried the badge up, I noticed there was adhesive from the badge keeping it in place. I used a heat-gun on the lowest setting to carefully heat the badge from a distance. After that, the badge came off easily. I recommend following bassanddrum84 and use string, floss, or line to lift the badge. If you want to protect the badge, finish, or shell, using a flat-head could damage them.
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Turns out the rivets were partially embedded into the shell. Weird!

Thanks again for all the advice! the next step will be to remove the finish and prep the surface for repainting (don't know what I wanna do yet).
I've never done anything like this before so I've been reading a lot. Also the finish is already starting to crack on it's own.
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I'm thinking about using Citristrip (or any other recommended stripping agent) and acetone to remove the majority of the finish and use fine sandpaper to remove the finish near the edges.

My worries are that the stripping agent or acetone will eat away at the glue on the edges and near the holes. I'm also worried (since I've never properly sanded something) that I may gouge the shell using sandpaper (I've been told this may just be an inevitable part of the learning experience). I would really like to hear more from you guys and anyone else regarding this subject.
 
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Bojangles1594

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Does the rivet actually go through the shell to the inside of the drum or are they a decorative touch on the badge?
If they go through drumbums advice above is good. If you can’t see them inside I would suspect its just glued. Warm it up with a hair dryer and try bassanddrums sawing technique. Dental floss or fishing line would be ideal
Kinda weird, the rivets were partially embedded into the shell.
 

Bojangles1594

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Also, I received a frightening surprise when I removed the drum lugs.
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It appears that the previous owner took a drill bit to MOST OF THE HOLES!!! This was a sad reminder of the condition I found this kit in.
But that's a story for another time.

I will worry about this after the finish is removed.
 

1988fxlr

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Any idea what the finish is? Acetone will only work if its lacquer. If its poly based you may be good stripping it with the heat gun and a plastic scraper. Keep it moving to avoid burn marks
 

Bojangles1594

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Any idea what the finish is? Acetone will only work if its lacquer. If its poly based you may be good stripping it with the heat gun and a plastic scraper. Keep it moving to avoid burn marks
I believe it is a lacquer. The website says "Hi-Gloss Deep Lacquer Fade" but I'm not sure if those are just buzz words.
They are no longer in business.
 

Bojangles1594

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Can we get a closeup of the badge and rear? Do you want to save the badge or do you want to get rid of it? If you want to get rid of it, I suggested a Dremel with the grinding tip.
Thanks for the tip Jazz. Also, I will do better to respond to picture requests.
 
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Bojangles1594

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Any idea what the finish is? Acetone will only work if its lacquer. If its poly based you may be good stripping it with the heat gun and a plastic scraper. Keep it moving to avoid burn marks
So it turns out that even though the website said " Hi-Gloss Deep Lacquer Fade", it was not really a lacquer. The Citristrip and Acetone did not have any effect on the finish. I'm not sure what else the finish might be.

The Citristrip says " remove dried latex and oil-based paint, varnish, lacquer, polyurethane and shellac from wood, metal and masonry surfaces. It removes five layers of dried latex paint in under one hour.", but nothing came off with the scraper.

My next plan is to leave the Citristrip on for a longer period of time (instructions say '30 min to 24 hrs') and if not, I will use the heat gun.

Let me know if you guys have any advice. Thanks in advance for the help.
 

1988fxlr

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Start real slow with the heat gun and bring it closer til you just start seeing the finish crackle then gently scrape with a putty knife. If you’re using a metal putty knife file the leading corners to round them over so they don’t gouge the shell. Gloves are recommended as the wood will hold heat longer than you’d expect
 

Bojangles1594

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Hello everyone!
I was going to post this yesterday but it got too late.
I finally removed the finish using a heat gun and scraper. I held the heat gun a few inches away from the shell. As soon as the finish showed some bubbles, I scraped it away using a plastic putty knife. If you have stubborn areas come back to it later. I got too comfortable in a stubborn area and ended up burning the shell.
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After the top layer was removed I used acetone and microfiber cloths to remove the rest. I wore a paint cartridge mask, because that acetone is some gnarly stuff.
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The next step is to sand the wood and prepare it for painting. I’m thinking about starting with 240 grit and working my way up to 400. Any advice on the sanding portion? I’m planning on using an oil-based stain. Thanks in advance.

p.s sorry for the format I posted this at work from my phone
 

1988fxlr

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Hello everyone!
I was going to post this yesterday but it got too late.
I finally removed the finish using a heat gun and scraper. I held the heat gun a few inches away from the shell. As soon as the finish showed some bubbles, I scraped it away using a plastic putty knife. If you have stubborn areas come back to it later. I got too comfortable in a stubborn area and ended up burning the shell.
View attachment 512109 View attachment 512110 View attachment 512111

After the top layer was removed I used acetone and microfiber cloths to remove the rest. I wore a paint cartridge mask, because that acetone is some gnarly stuff.
View attachment 512112

The next step is to sand the wood and prepare it for painting. I’m thinking about starting with 240 grit and working my way up to 400. Any advice on the sanding portion? I’m planning on using an oil-based stain. Thanks in advance.

p.s sorry for the format I posted this at work from my phone
shell looks good and pretty clean. Unless you have trouble areas to attend to start with higher grit, maybe 320. You can’t go backwards and unsand so start with the least aggresive grit you can to get the desired results. You don’t want to blow through the outer ply.
 

Bojangles1594

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shell looks good and pretty clean. Unless you have trouble areas to attend to start with higher grit, maybe 320. You can’t go backwards and unsand so start with the least aggresive grit you can to get the desired results. You don’t want to blow through the outer ply.
Thanks! The only trouble area I see is the burned spot. There are light orange spots around the shell, but I guess they're not too bad. I'll try 320 then 400 and see how that goes.

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Am I out of luck when it comes to this burn?
 

1988fxlr

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Thanks! The only trouble area I see is the burned spot. There are light orange spots around the shell, but I guess they're not too bad. I'll try 320 then 400 and see how that goes.

View attachment 512146
Am I out of luck when it comes to this burn?
Doesn’t look too bad, it might lighten up. A lot has to do with how thick the plus are. If it stays visible a bit of an amber tint to your finish will help it blend. If you’re having a tough time removing residue with the 320 hot those spots with 220 but keep in mind that the deeper scratches from 220 will need to be smoothed out with 320 and you don’t have a lot of wood to work with
 

Bojangles1594

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Hey guys sorry for the absence, I’ve been taking a bit longer sanding down the shell. It’s starting to look a lot better and the burn mark is also fading. The shell thickness seems to be okay.
I’ve been watching videos about staining wood and I noticed a lot of people sanding up to 220. Even the instructions for the stain I wanted said 220. It’s too late for 220 grit, but will the stain still hold if I smooth out with 400 grit?
 


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