How to match a stain color

Rick Jones1

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I have a Adonis kit (Toms : 10/12/14, Kick : 22, all Maple) that is a blue stain. I am adding another tom size to this kit (more toms later if this works out). I am looking for suggestions on how best to match the stain color of the new shell. I have a unfinished Keller Maple shell on the way, the bearing edges have been cut, I will be drilling the holes after staining.

I took one of the toms to Sherwin Williams, they said they would need a wood sample to try and match the stain. They suggest I get a sample from Home Depot or Lowes for matching the stain color. I am assuming it would be best to get a maple sample?

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rick
 

jccabinets

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Sherwin-Williams is a good choice, at least you'll have someone that is trained instead of some kid at a big-box store. And yes you should try to get some maple for them to do the match on. Maple is a difficult wood to stain because of the blotchiness you get sometimes. I would suggest conditioning the wood so you'll get a more uniform color. Conditioning wood mean staining the drum with a pre stain, a stain with no pigment. Another thing that is going to really affect the outcome is how you sand the shell. Do not send it to death and polish it so it's so smooth that the finished won't adhere to it. 180 or 220 grit paper should be sufficient. Now for the hard part, the Finish. You really need to spray it although I have seen some pretty good results with guys using a brush. But if you can get someone to spray them for you that would be the best. Pay attention to the sheen, I assume it's a gloss finish but don't fall asleep and use something that won't match.
 

Tommy D

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Were you able to get Adonis lugs? If you need some, dfd is selling some while supplies last:
 

Rick Jones1

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Hi Tommy,
Yeah that's where I got the Adonis lugs. Sounds like I might need to order more if supplies are limited.
 

Tommy D

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Hi Tommy,
Yeah that's where I got the Adonis lugs. Sounds like I might need to order more if supplies are limited.
Its hard to say. As far as I know Adonis is no longer in business nor making those lugs (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Some guy off the Ghostnote forum started reproducing them on his home lathe and did sell to some of the forum members. He would only make them in batches though, so there would be times when they were available and others when there were none available for like 6 months. I don't know if dfd is having these lugs made by this guy, or if they have someone in China making them, but it has been my experience that these lugs don't come along often. In fact I was really surprised to see them on dfd. First time I did see them, they only had a few available. Now it looks like they have more.
 

Rick Jones1

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Sherwin-Williams is a good choice, at least you'll have someone that is trained instead of some kid at a big-box store. And yes you should try to get some maple for them to do the match on. Maple is a difficult wood to stain because of the blotchiness you get sometimes. I would suggest conditioning the wood so you'll get a more uniform color. Conditioning wood mean staining the drum with a pre stain, a stain with no pigment. Another thing that is going to really affect the outcome is how you sand the shell. Do not send it to death and polish it so it's so smooth that the finished won't adhere to it. 180 or 220 grit paper should be sufficient. Now for the hard part, the Finish. You really need to spray it although I have seen some pretty good results with guys using a brush. But if you can get someone to spray them for you that would be the best. Pay attention to the sheen, I assume it's a gloss finish but don't fall asleep and use something that won't match.
Thanks for the suggestions.

It will be a semi gloss finish. How many coats of stain? Do I sand between each coat? As you can tell I am very much a newbie at this.

Here is the tom I want to match.

IMG_20191221_073249.jpg
 

jccabinets

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It should require only one coat of the stain usually you don't apply more than one coat. And you shouldn't sand the stain. You should just be able to apply the stain with a brush or rag let it sit for a bit then wipe it off. I'm assuming this is a wiping stain that they were making for you. Once the stain is dry then you can apply your first coat of finish. Sherwin-Williams should be able to walk you through the whole process. If they come up with a sample that looks really great then you just need to ask them how they got to that point.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Kelly Moore has a bunch of colored stains, too, but I didn't see a blue - maybe they can custom mix one for you?

Looks like a teal/blue type......I'd get a light color and try to match it with food dye - maybe blues and some green. Will take a lot of trial and error and (I'm no wood expert) I think you will get close only, not a spot on match.

Finishing it in satin should be easy.......
 

Rick Jones1

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Thanks, as suggested earlier I got some shell scraps coming from Precision Drum Company where I bought the shell. Only having to pay for the shipping. I will be taking these to Sherwin Williams that will be matching the color.
 

Rock Salad

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Also, that drum you want to match looks stained on the wood, nothing under the stain.
Good you posted that! Hopefully the experts can really help now.
 

GeeDeeEmm

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Also, that drum you want to match looks stained on the wood, nothing under the stain.
Good you posted that! Hopefully the experts can really help now.
Do you mean that it looks like stain only with no finish applied over it? I'd doubt that very seriously. Stain only rarely results in a uniform finish as seen on the OP's drum. Stain only will leave slightly raised wood grain and alternating flat and shiny areas as the grain changes.

The whole idea of a "flat" or "satin" finish over a stain is to give the wood a natural, rather than glossy, sheen. But the topcoats also fill in any remaining grain-printing (with the option of sanding between coats to maximize the smoothness) along with protection from the elements.

GeeDeeEmm
 

Rock Salad

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No Gee, It just looks like an actual stain, not a clear tinted coating is what I was noticing. So, no sealer first before stain color. Someone had mentioned a clear sealer coat before the pic was posted.
Also Sherwin Williams has always been good to me too.
 

Rick Jones1

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I finally got around to finishing the 14x14 floor tom to go along with my blue stained Adonis kit. The stain didn't come out as dark as I had hoped but hopefully it's close enough. It sounds really good, using Evans EC2 on the batter side and clear Remo Ambassador for the resonant head. Also using the DSS Floor Tom Iso Mount.


Thanks to everyone for the pointers on this build.

Rick Jones

IMG_20200502_200513.jpg
IMG_20191221_073249.jpg
 


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