Least harmful cymbal repair - suggestions?

bfulton

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I acquired a nice Zildjian 19” “trash smash.” There’s a 2-3 inch crack in the lathe line, about 1” in from the edge.
My typical routine is to drill at the end of the crack, and watch it for a while.
But this one is along the lathe line, and that’s not typical for me.
It looks like I could cut into the edge and basically lift the piece out. Then smooth everything round.
But I’m limited in tools. I have a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. A hacksaw. A dremel tool with cut off wheels. An auto shop cut off wheel. And tin snips, I suppose.
I’m not a hard hitter generally, but there is the occasional big band shout.

So. 1. Should I just leave it alone? 2. Drill it? 3. Surgically remove it with a _______?
4. Send it to a pro? 5. Have it cut to 18”? (What would that do to the sound?)
6. Think about it until Saturday or so.

Thanks !
 

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JDA

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My typical routine is to drill at the end of the crack
This. two holes (total) one on each side (?.of da crack.
Sure you could send it to the guy that weld$ them for time and $
3/32"holes 5/32" if you want to add rivet or two (to cover up the rattlechaffing noise
 

bfulton

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That’s my plan A. Two 3/16” holes for rivets, then two rivets, then see what happens next.
 

CaptainCrunch

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I bought a China Boy that had the same thing right at the bend for $10. I drilled both ends, but the rattling choked it. So I simply connected the two dots carefully with a small round file.

The repair tended to end up on the side away from me on the stand, and it sounded same as a new one. I think I let a friend borrow it and I never needed it back.
 

dtk

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another option would be to widen the crack and devine the end points (sort of make the crack more like a smile...or green bean... I'm not a fan of drilling holes at the end...i've seen two many times where the crack just continues...I like the idea of losing a little mass/cutting the cancer out.

dtk
 

TPC

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I have done a bunch of these.

Drilling the ends and Dremeling the crack a bit so the edges don't rub works real well.

My preference, though,when it's this close to the edge is to notch it out (with the same Dremel wheel). Big radii. If you intend to crash the cymbal, I actually think it's MORE structurally sound to notch it because you don't have that metal to hit outside of the crack. The sound does not suffer from the small amount of removed metal.
 

bfulton

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I’m reluctant with the dremel wheel, but only because I’ve never done it. It sounds like a solid long term solution.
Is there an issue with generating heat? Is a hacksaw cut an option? The teeth are pretty fine....

TPC - what’s a plan to smooth the edges and round corners? A fine hand file?
You can tell I haven’t tackled anything like this up til now. But given my love a bargain ebay orphans, I should learn!

I appreciate the tips on this.
 
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bfulton

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I did send this out to be repaired. Previous owner repaired, but then crack reoccurred. So I think it’ll need a broader, smoother cut. It is much, much thinner than the Zildjian.
An 18 Paiste Crystal crash. Amazing sound. Worth a chance for forty bucks.
 

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TPC

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I’m reluctant with the dremel wheel, but only because I’ve never done it. It sounds like a solid long term solution.
Is there an issue with generating heat? Is a hacksaw cut an option? The teeth are pretty fine....

TPC - what’s a plan to smooth the edges and round corners? A fine hand file?
You can tell I haven’t tackled anything like this up til now. But given my love a bargain ebay orphans, I should learn!

I appreciate the tips on this.
I use the Dremel stone wheel tool to both cut and to smooth out the radii. The stone goes through bronze like butter, so with care and a steady hand you can do the main cut, then smooth out any angles very easily.

I mark my line with a Sharpie, then slowly cut along the line. Heat can be a problem, so if you feel things heating up, take a break until it cools down.
 

REF

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Having repaired so many cymbals over the years (used acquisitions), drill the two holes, then take a rat tail file, a small one, like a chain saw file, and take your time taking out the crack end to end. You'll never know the difference and metal fatigue will be controlled. Cracks could develop north or south because of the constant fatigue of those rough edges grating against each other.
 

bfulton

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Man, I love this forum. I’m going to do this today. I’ll check out both the stone wheel and a small, fine file - like a chain saw file (!)
I could start with the file, move on to the wheel is needed.

AND I have yet another cracked Paiste with about a 3 inch crack diagonally across the lathe lines, in the bow of the cymbal. An 18 full crash Sig. I’ve been playing it for years with no changes. I’m inclined to leave it alone.
Also some cracked ol’ Zildjians, but they can wait. Like you, REF, I gather orphans for low bucks just to try different voices. Just don’t have the source of income these days to contact Craig Lauritsen!
 

bfulton

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Jeez. I must have the wrong Dremel stone wheel, because it barely made a dent.
I did drill holes at each end, though. Hand filing along there is a time consuming proposition, for sure.
Dang. I’ll just learn to love it. For a while.
I use the Dremel stone wheel tool to both cut and to smooth out the radii. The stone goes through bronze like butter, so with care and a steady hand you can do the main cut, then smooth out any angles very easily.

I mark my line with a Sharpie, then slowly cut along the line. Heat can be a problem, so if you feel things heating up, take a break until it cools down.
would it be possible for you to send a picture of the Dremel tool you’re using? My friendly local hardware store probably has them ....
 

bfulton

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Okay - thank you. I’ve been using a smaller, generic wheel that will cut small (#6 or 8) bolts. I’ll check this out. And thanks for the part ##!
 

bfulton

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I just discovered I have a 456, but I didn’t realize how worn it is!
I tried a fresh one, and sho’ ‘nuff!
Thank you
 


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