New to me Round Badge Project

JDA

DFO Star
Silver Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2005
Messages
22,133
Reaction score
11,028
Location
Jeannette, Pa.
yes test heads before adding any pearl layer/ you know that.
I see you are leaning Stain that's good..
those sizes never really seem to have major fit issues
(it's always the 20" ime) which you don't have so that's good.
 

achin225

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2021
Messages
9
Reaction score
11
Lose the Rogers and go back to Gretsch. Fill the holes and SAND THE SHELLS. Repaint the sealer. Any craft store has aluminum paint. Rewrap everything, (black diamond pearl?), but the snare. Soft Scrub, Non scratch Scotch-Brite, denatured alcohol are a great combination to get the mong off of hardware. Wire brush the springs and seal them. Diamond plate and consolette if you want to but I would keep the bass virgin and mount the 13" on a snare stand. Remo heads and you are done.
 
Last edited:

retrosonic

DFO Master
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
3,652
Reaction score
558
Location
NYC
The black stain looks better than I thought it would. So thats certainly an option for you, but thats alot of sanding, no?

Heres a GREAT shot of Charlie Watts with a set almost exactly like mine, Gretsch Black Diamond Pearl!! Except he has a metal snare, which I have major aversions to. Lee: Maybe BDP pearl is a contender for you? Jammin Sam has the vintage BDP and no one else does.
 

Attachments

wflkurt

Deafus Maximus
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
9,761
Reaction score
1,264
Location
Chichester NH
The black stain looks better than I thought it would. So thats certainly an option for you, but thats alot of sanding, no?

Heres a GREAT shot of Charlie Watts with a set almost exactly like mine, Gretsch Black Diamond Pearl!! Except he has a metal snare, which I have major aversions to. Lee: Maybe BDP pearl is a contender for you? Jammin Sam has the vintage BDP and no one else does.

I'm with this. Do it up in BDP and it will look great!
 

JFBL

Well-Known Member
Silver Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
118
Reaction score
151
Location
Toronto
Great set, congrats and have fun! I love them. I would also keep that awesome Rogers hardware. It's legit.
 

Lee Van Kief

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
284
Reaction score
342
Location
Austin, TX
I’m going to be touring with this kit in a pop/dance group later this year. I would love to bring back the BDP I once had, but I think black would bridge the gap between modern and vintage. I want it to look nice, but not TOO nice that I’m worried about babying it. BDP would be a good deal more expensive. I put some feeler gauges under the heads, and it feels like wrap would be a go. They’re currently pretty loose on the shell (standard Ambassadors.)

I’d still be paying homage to Charlie:

EB15E7FC-B5DE-46B4-A070-5C9F15E43B0D.jpeg
 
Last edited:

retrosonic

DFO Master
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
3,652
Reaction score
558
Location
NYC
Lee: Yes, the black finish would look classy, no argument there.

I'll be curious to see what you decide about the Rogers hardware. Personally, I'd keep it...the shells are already drilled for it and plugging up those big Rogers holes seems like a major pain to me. But congrats on a great set!
 

ThomasL

Very well Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2010
Messages
516
Reaction score
640
Location
Finland
The snare looks like it could be an original mahogany surface??? Did they make those? The rest looks like the usual DIY refinish.

If you want to do a black stain, make sure you use a wood filler that takes stain. You can see some plugged holes on both sides of the tom bracket here. I cut cylindrical plugs from a piece of scrap shell, but there is probably some filler around the edge of the hole.
EOS_3824s.jpg
 

Lee Van Kief

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
284
Reaction score
342
Location
Austin, TX
The snare looks like it could be an original mahogany surface??? Did they make those? The rest looks like the usual DIY refinish.
It may be! I’m not up enough on my Gretsch history. I have seen examples of 60’s field drums in what looks like the same finish.

Thanks for the tips! I’m leaning towards a wrap to make it easier on myself.
 

retrosonic

DFO Master
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
3,652
Reaction score
558
Location
NYC
Hi Lee: Yes, re-wrapping would be alot cleaner and easier than all the sanding you would have to do. Since you like that black finish, I'd bet you you can get solid black wrap somewhere without spending a ton. Are you keeping the snare?
 

Lee Van Kief

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
284
Reaction score
342
Location
Austin, TX
Hi Lee: Yes, re-wrapping would be alot cleaner and easier than all the sanding you would have to do. Since you like that black finish, I'd bet you you can get solid black wrap somewhere without spending a ton. Are you keeping the snare?
Gloss black (nitron ;-)) looks very reasonable in terms of cost. I’ve ordered wrap from Andy at drummaker.com before, so I’ll most likely go through him again.

I cleaned up the snare and played on it a little today, and I think it overlaps my 4157 a little too much to keep around. I just listed it in the Drums For Sale section.
 

Lee Van Kief

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
284
Reaction score
342
Location
Austin, TX
Crack repair was an almost flawless success and put the drum back in round! I decided to keep the Rogers spurs and have the rest of the holes filled and ready to sand. Gloss black wrap is on the way.

Is it recommended to completely sand off the finish before applying 3M cement? I was planning on at least scuffing it up to promote adhesion. Also looking for reference photos for where the seam should end up. I know that Gretsch seams aren’t placed under lugs and I’ll most likely cut back some at the overlap for easier head seating.
 

RogersLudwig

DFO Veteran
Gold Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2008
Messages
2,483
Reaction score
1,076
Location
Fort Stinkindesert, NM
Crack repair was an almost flawless success and put the drum back in round! I decided to keep the Rogers spurs and have the rest of the holes filled and ready to sand. Gloss black wrap is on the way.

Is it recommended to completely sand off the finish before applying 3M cement? I was planning on at least scuffing it up to promote adhesion. Also looking for reference photos for where the seam should end up. I know that Gretsch seams aren’t placed under lugs and I’ll most likely cut back some at the overlap for easier head seating.
Jack Lawton told me he cleans off the old glue using lacquer thinner before applying the 3M fast bond cement. He didn't mention using sand paper though. His big advice was to put the 3M fast bond on both the wrap and the shell and let it dry completely before sticking the wrap to the shell, about 30 minutes.
 

Lee Van Kief

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
284
Reaction score
342
Location
Austin, TX
Jack Lawton told me he cleans off the old glue using lacquer thinner before applying the 3M fast bond cement. He didn't mention using sand paper though. His big advice was to put the 3M fast bond on both the wrap and the shell and let it dry completely before sticking the wrap to the shell, about 30 minutes.
Totally. I have experience wrapping using 3M, but only on bare shells, never any with an existing finish (what I assumed is poly on these.)
 

RogersLudwig

DFO Veteran
Gold Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2008
Messages
2,483
Reaction score
1,076
Location
Fort Stinkindesert, NM
Totally. I have experience wrapping using 3M, but only on bare shells, never any with an existing finish (what I assumed is poly on these.)
About four weeks ago I received from Jack a drum of mine he recovered and I asked him how I should go about gluing down the lifting seams on an the rest of my RB set from the mid-60s and this was his advice. Clean off the shell and the back of the wrap with lacquer thinner before gluing, but no mention of sanding. use a cloth doused in thinner, but don't use too much. just enough to remove the old glue and do a small spot at a time. I haven't tried it yet, but I trust him.
 

Lee Van Kief

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
284
Reaction score
342
Location
Austin, TX
About four weeks ago I received from Jack a drum of mine he recovered and I asked him how I should go about gluing down the lifting seams on an the rest of my RB set from the mid-60s and this was his advice. Clean off the shell and the back of the wrap with lacquer thinner before gluing, but no mention of sanding. use a cloth doused in thinner, but don't use too much. just enough to remove the old glue and do a small spot at a time. I haven't tried it yet, but I trust him.
These have been refinished by a previous owner, looks like stain and polyurethane. No old glue left. I don’t think lacquer thinner would do anything to the poly, but it might clean it. I was wanting to know if it’s recommended to remove the poly before applying the contact cement, or if it doesn’t matter.
 

SKSMITH

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
293
Reaction score
145
Location
STL, MO
I would sand the polyurethane. You need to give the contact cement some "tooth" to grip onto the shell. I've also used a sanding sponge on the backside of the wrap to do the same.
The glue may not stick to the existing finish. I don't think you need to sand to bare wood though.
 


Top