Non Drill Shell Mount Cymbal Holder

Bongo Congo

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Good use of the ole brain there. :notworthy:
It really is. How many thousands of drummers looked at those same components and never figured out that you could put them together that way?

I'm not exaggerating when I use the term "genius". Remember Picasso's Bull's Head? Every year a million people look at it and they all say the same thing: "It's two bicycle parts. I could have done that." No. You couldn't. Nobody ever did. That's the point. It took a genius to see it. ;)
 

atomicmorganic

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I really like the DW hoop clamp. I have one with a Dunnett hoop mount rail for my rack tom. Works great and my drum remains a virgin.
 

K.O.

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Good use of the ole brain there. :notworthy:
It really is. How many thousands of drummers looked at those same components and never figured out that you could put them together that way?

I'm not exaggerating when I use the term "genius". Remember Picasso's Bull's Head? Every year a million people look at it and they all say the same thing: "It's two bicycle parts. I could have done that." No. You couldn't. Nobody ever did. That's the point. It took a genius to see it. ;)
Well, thanks guys, I do what I can :wink: .
 

6topher

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It is a fantastic idea! I play one up on a Hollywood kit & would loooooove to get rid of a boom.

I wonder if anybody else makes the Claw Clamps that would work?

I also can't tell if this new Ludwig Atlas Arm would work from this pic
 

K.O.

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It is a fantastic idea! I play one up on a Hollywood kit & would loooooove to get rid of a boom.

I wonder if anybody else makes the Claw Clamps that would work?

I also can't tell if this new Ludwig Atlas Arm would work from this pic
That Atlas assembly is essentially the same thing as the DW dogbone that I used, so it will work just the same if you were using a 1/2" diameter crossbar. Depending on how you wanted to use it you might have to shorten that boom arm up a bit...which is easy enough to do.

You could use any other sort of hoop clamp but the DW one is the best design I've seen yet and isn't really that expensive @ $20 per clamp. Most anything else worth using is going to be priced at a similar amount. Also the DW will accomodate the 1/2" stock but will also hold a 3/8ths rod and anything in between. Most of the other hoop clamp designs I'm familiar with are designed for one specific diameter (usually 9.5mm or 10.5mm) and won't take a 1/2" tube(1/2" is 12.7mm).

If Ludwig were to come up with their own version of those hoop claws they could couple it with that assembly you linked to above and sell their own "Atlas" version of this holder. Somebody ought to be making money off this idea (I'm sure it won't be me :neutral: ).

BTW: how did you guys stumble onto this two year old thread?
 

Chris

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KO, Great idea.I'm using old Ludwig hoop clamps that used to hold one cymbal or the old wooden trays they used to make.It's flat rather than rounded like your invention.But works the same way.Had to add some heavy aluminum strips to make it longer for the depth of the bass.By the way, the Ludwig parts are very rare & hard to find.Danmar makes a close equivalent.Sorry I don't have a way to post pictures.
 

Bunnyman

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Just did this mod- hot damn, K.O.- you're the dog's bollocks!!! Okay- you're a keen bloke!!!!

This is a brilliant, and I mean BRILLIANT solution. I am running one right now and am spreading the gospel!!!! Yes, DW should gift you with a new kit for this!!!!
 

lperdomo13

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hi ko, a buddy of mine found your setup by googling alternative cymbal mounts for bass drums. i helped him put it on his ludwig 26" bass drum and it works great.
 

K.O.

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Thanks guys, Glad to know it's helping people get their rides where they want them.
 

Bunnyman

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I have painted the 1/2" tube with textured "durable" finish. I am using a DW Puppy Bone rather than a Dog Bone and it is complete with cymbal holder. I am already using this configuration on a Slingerland kick drum and will thusly go to my gigging Tama. I used a 1/2" boom with the tilter extracted. The painted pipe version is going on my DW's. But now I have some cymbal mount flexibility and can carry one less stand, as well. This is such a brilliant idea. Thanks again, K.O.!!!
 

blue-onyx

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K.O.

Great idea! Now here's a question. Can you come up with a non-drill TOM mount? (single tom)
 

K.O.

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K.O.

Great idea! Now here's a question. Can you come up with a non-drill TOM mount? (single tom)
It wasn't my idea but I have seen that done using a Pearl suspension system mounted on the bass drum and then mounting a tom off that.
 

agogobil

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K.O.

Great idea! Now here's a question. Can you come up with a non-drill TOM mount? (single tom)
It wasn't my idea but I have seen that done using a Pearl suspension system mounted on the bass drum and then mounting a tom off that.
yeah, I tried that with a Pearl Opti-mount (for a 16" tom), mounted on top of a 22" virgin kick. You then use a Pearl elbow (or whatever same sized dia. tube) to mount the tom. The problem I ran into was that the Opti-mount just barely fit onto the kick's tension rods - I didn't like the strain it was under.

I have also seen the hoop clamp used with the Dunnett rail mount. I tried that as well, but I didn't like how shaky it was.
 

blue-onyx

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Thanks

I conldn't get the link to the dunnet part to work. But i know what you mean about the optimounts being shaky. I was thinking that i would get two of those gibraltar hoop clamps like KO did,and then attach or weld a bar that goes across the bass drum. then to that attach the appropriate pieces of a tom arm and rims mount. this is sounding more and more like what KO did, so maybe i should just start with that. I could always take a rail mount and drill, but hate to do it.
 

6topher

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so, do I get a membership card for this club or what?

View attachment 133785 View attachment 133786


just set this up tonight, can't hit it now but....

The DW mounts are really, really well made. I had a straight floor tom leg from an old mij 14x14 that worked perfectly as the cross bar & the knurled portion works out with where I have the Gibraltar cymbal arm attached to it. Really sturdy, but enough give. At least as sturdy (and probably more so) as the vintage bass mounted cymbal arms I have on my 2 Slingerland kits and seems like I have no need to worry about damaging the hoops with the distribution.

A little apprehensive about losing the vintage vibe, but it sits in nicely - and that's kind of the beauty of it, I can set it up the way I like to play without doing any harm to the kit & when I do want to set it up"Full Hollywood" it's a 2 minute removal. And dropping another stand I don't have to lug around? Priceless.

again, what a great idea, Thanks again KO.
 

K.O.

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so, do I get a membership card for this club or what?

View attachment 133785 View attachment 133786


just set this up tonight, can't hit it now but....

The DW mounts are really, really well made. I had a straight floor tom leg from an old mij 14x14 that worked perfectly as the cross bar & the knurled portion works out with where I have the Gibraltar cymbal arm attached to it. Really sturdy, but enough give. At least as sturdy (and probably more so) as the vintage bass mounted cymbal arms I have on my 2 Slingerland kits and seems like I have no need to worry about damaging the hoops with the distribution.

A little apprehensive about losing the vintage vibe, but it sits in nicely - and that's kind of the beauty of it, I can set it up the way I like to play without doing any harm to the kit & when I do want to set it up"Full Hollywood" it's a 2 minute removal. And dropping another stand I don't have to lug around? Priceless.

again, what a great idea, Thanks again KO.
Looking good!

your membership card is in the mail :wink:
 

K.O.

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I'm impressed, Kevin.Very smooth thinking. Two of those would make a dandy rail for a tom mount too. Thanks !! Benny K.
You'd only need one kf you used it with a Dunnett rail mount.
I have one of those Dunnett rails and have fooled around trying to make it work with the DW claw as a "no-drill" tom mount but couldn't quite get it to work satisfactorily. The main problem is the rail itself is designed to be used for a floor tom to bass drum conversion using a floor tom with three leg brackets. Two of the leg brackets become the holders for the gullwing spurs which puts the third one at the top center of the drum to hold the rail. Therefore the rail is designed to be attached about 2/3rds of the way towards the front (reso side) of the drum and hang down towards the floor, letting gravity pull the other end of it (with the rubber cap) down against the shell. With the DW claw on the front hoop to replace the leg bracket you end up with the rail too far forward (for me anyway...although it might work with a shallower bass drum). When you try to use it the other way around (oriented on the batter side of the drum) then you end up with the rail going "uphill" with the weight of any tom tending to lift the other end of the rail away from the drum. The other problem was, even as good as it is, a single DW claw didn't seem to be up to the task of holding the rail firmly in place with a tom on it (lots of leverage comes into play). Obviously a leg bracket attached to the shell is much more secure.

I believe the basic concept is viable, with two DW claws and a full crossbar I think you could easily support a tom. You'd need to fabricate something similar to the Dunnett rail but with a sideways clamp on one end to connect to the crossbar. The other end could be loose with a rubber foot resting against the shell like the Dunnett rail uses, just as long as it was oriented to go "downhill" so gravity can assist holding it in place. I can picture what it would be like in my mind's eye but actually making it would be a bit of a stretch (without access to a machine shop).
 

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