Potentially trading for a Ludwig Club Date. Have a few questions...

[kallen49]

Here are a few pictures of the inside of the bass drum.

The bearing edges look fine. Heads on both sides spin freely.

The drum is musty smelling but I don't see any signs of water damage.

There is writing in chalk. I can't tell what the word is but can see "22". The wood inside is a bit dry and could use a wipe of some type of oil but I don't want to potentially wipe away any chalk.

I didn't see a date.

The patch/plug at the top is roughly 1 1/2" in diameter. There is some cracking that runs along edge of the hole.

Does 1 1/2" diameter seem about right for a cymbal mount?

There are 6 small plugged holes that were probably from a rail mount.

Most of the tuning rods are bent. Not quite sure how that happens.

Pics of the bearing edge at the scarf joint may not show much as there is a fair bit of light blue and black overspray. I hope those black specks aren't actually mold! I lightly wiped with a damp paper towel but that didn't help much.

My 1958 Pioneer snare, (it has a date stamp, transition badge), has that same mahogany interior with chalk markings. I'd post a pic but one of my nephews currently has the drum.

On my 20" 1969 club date bass drum I had an Inde single tom mount installed along with Inde light weight legs attached by BR3 mounts, great sounding drum.

 

[Gunnellett]

Floor tom.

Took off the heads to take a look inside.

The bearing edges look good. Both heads fit fine with the batter head spinning freely. The bottom head would fit but didn't spin freely as it needed a little bit of a push. The bottom hoop is slightly out of round so I think the hoop might have deformed the head slightly as the tighter spots moved with the head when turning as in it didn't look like the tight spots were in the same spot on the drum. Thinking about it just now, I should have put another head on to see. Oh well, it isn't enough to bother me, just making notes.

The inside was definitely re-painted. I'm thinking to cover up some crustyness you can see in the pics. Tapping on the inside of the shell I didn't hear any soft spots but it looks like there are a few spots where the inner ply has poked through the paint. I picked one small piece that was hanging and it looks like mahogany. Part of me wants to strip the paint to what it looks like underneath and part of me says leave it alone and be blissfully unaware!

The re-rings were tight.

 

[mlayton]

Sounds right on the center mount. Here is a pic. The bass drums equipped like this usually had no rail mounts however....Mike

 

[JazzDrumGuy]

I didn't know they made club dates in 13/16/22 - cool.

 

[Gunnellett]

Sounds right on the center mount. Here is a pic. The bass drums equipped like this usually had no rail mounts however....Mike

Nice looking drum.

I'd like to put a center mount cymbal there again. I'd probably need to sandwich the shell between pieces of aluminum plate due to the cracked shell.

I'd like another of those cymbal mounts for a ride.

That would make a for a beautiful, lightweight, and efficient set.

What cymbal rod would have been used with these mounts? Maybe the solid bar top section of vintage flat based cymbal stand?

 

[Gunnellett]

I didn't know they made club dates in 13/16/22 - cool.

From what I am learning here, I guess the 16" isn't an actual club date because of the different lugs but often folks would add a floor tom with the classic lugs.

I'd like to find a 15" floor tom. Those had the club date lugs.

 

[Gunnellett]

My 1958 Pioneer snare, (it has a date stamp, transition badge), has that same mahogany interior with chalk markings. I'd post a pic but one of my nephews currently has the drum.

On my 20" 1969 club date bass drum I had an Inde single tom mount installed along with Inde light weight legs attached by BR3 mounts, great sounding drum.

I have a Transition Badge Pioneer which also has the chalk written on the mahogany interior. It is a fantastic set. If I get the set, the Pioneer will probably be the first snare to play with the set.

 

[D. B. Cooper]

Those are so cool!
I would take those three drums over most snare drums. Very useful. As long as they're round and tune up well, I would say go for it!

I hate tight-fitting heads so much that I would avoid wraps altogether, but some measuring would allow you to know before had if heads would be tight.
I say refinish! Either paint or stain depending on what's under there.

Let us know if you decide to trade!

 

[kookel]

Just jumping in. Another thing to consider is, it really does boil down to the sound. If you truly dig the sound, you’re not going to be thinking about what’s not original or extra holes.
Years ago, I traded one of my old K’s for a set of clubbies. Never regretted it; they sound so darn good.

 

[mlayton]

Nice looking drum.

I'd like to put a center mount cymbal there again. I'd probably need to sandwich the shell between pieces of aluminum plate due to the cracked shell.

I'd like another of those cymbal mounts for a ride.

That would make a for a beautiful, lightweight, and efficient set.

What cymbal rod would have been used with these mounts? Maybe the solid bar top section of vintage flat based cymbal stand?

The very top portion of a Ludwig 1400 cymbal stand fits right in there. Really anything with a 3/8" rod would work....Mike

 

[Gunnellett]

Just jumping in. Another thing to consider is, it really does boil down to the sound. If you truly dig the sound, you’re not going to be thinking about what’s not original or extra holes.
Years ago, I traded one of my old K’s for a set of clubbies. Never regretted it; they sound so darn good.

You are right, the sound is ultimately what matters.

Vintage drums can be like a mystery/puzzle that I love trying to figure out so that aspect is fun. I'm also just trying to make sure I'm not buying something with potential hidden issues to be discovered down the road.

The guy I'm working with is a stand up guy and we have a good relationship. He basically bought these a year ago off of Craigslist list a year ago but decided they were not for him and they sat. He actually beat me to the drums as I was at work and couldn't leave, dang it! I know he got them at a really nice price but I don't want to get into that with him as we help each other out looking for things.

 

[Gunnellett]

The very top portion of a Ludwig 1400 cymbal stand fits right in there. Really anything with a 3/8" rod would work....Mike

Cool. That's what I was hoping. Thanks.

 

[wflkurt]

Just jumping in. Another thing to consider is, it really does boil down to the sound. If you truly dig the sound, you’re not going to be thinking about what’s not original or extra holes.
Years ago, I traded one of my old K’s for a set of clubbies. Never regretted it; they sound so darn good.

I traded a beautiful 22" K Zildijian Istanbul cymbal for my 1971 Mod Orange club date set. It was hard to see that cymbal go but the club dates are so cool. Especially since I have never seen another Mod Orange club date from the 70's.

 

[Gunnellett]

I traded a beautiful 22" K Zildijian Istanbul cymbal for my 1971 Mod Orange club date set. It was hard to see that cymbal go but the club dates are so cool. Especially since I have never seen another Mod Orange club date from the 70's.

Those are nice!

 

[Ludwig1975]

My 1958 Pioneer snare, (it has a date stamp, transition badge), has that same mahogany interior with chalk markings. I'd post a pic but one of my nephews currently has the drum.

On my 20" 1969 club date bass drum I had an Inde single tom mount installed along with Inde light weight legs attached by BR3 mounts, great sounding drum.

Got a 22” luddie floor Tom ‍

 

[Gunnellett]

So we just made the trade. I threw in a few bucks and he threw in a Ludwig snare stand, a couple of Ludwig cymbal stands, a mic stand, and enough new heads for the whole set.

 

[Gunnellett]

Now I have a laundry list of things to do and ideas for these drums.

The main thing I need to do is figure out what to do about some cracking with the outer plies. Leave it alone? Sand down, stain and try sealing to stabilize? Maybe go with a wrap?

I'd like to get 2 of the dissapearing cymbal mounts but would need to repair the cracks where the original was at and then use 2 metal plates to sandwich the shell to keep it sturdy.

I'd like to get an original mount for the 13" tom. At least the diamond shaped mount for the tom itself.

Need to find another leg for the floor tom.

I'd like to get 2 more baseball bat mufflers.

Matching hoops for the bass. Might only need one more bass hoop if one of the 2 are an original style. Oh yeah, a metal bass drum hoop was part of the deal.

Straighten out half of the bass drum tuning rods.

Oh boy, what have I gotten myself in to!

 

[D. B. Cooper]

Now I have a laundry list of things to do and ideas for these drums.

The main thing I need to do is figure out what to do about some cracking with the outer plies. Leave it alone? Sand down, stain and try sealing to stabilize? Maybe go with a wrap?

I'd like to get 2 of the dissapearing cymbal mounts but would need to repair the cracks where the original was at and then use 2 metal plates to sandwich the shell to keep it sturdy.

I'd like to get an original mount for the 13" tom. At least the diamond shaped mount for the tom itself.

Need to find another leg for the floor tom.

I'd like to get 2 more baseball bat mufflers.

Matching hoops for the bass. Might only need one more bass hoop if one of the 2 are an original style. Oh yeah, a metal bass drum hoop was part of the deal.

Straighten out half of the bass drum tuning rods.

Oh boy, what have I gotten myself in to!

Love it. Are you going to do all of the work yourself?

 

[Gunnellett]

I'm going to give it a shot and see where it goes.