Removing Satin Clear

Luddite

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I bought a set of Ludwig Classic Birch in Sea Blue finish. I won an auction for a natural finish 16” floor and want to refinish it into a reasonable facsimile of the Sea Blue, which is a darkish turquoise. I’m not worried about the stain—-we have a Sherman Williams store a half hour away and they’re good at color matching. But I need to get the clear off before I stain it; it’s a very light satin. That would be the first question: best least invasive removal method? Second question: best satin clear coat?
 

Tommy D

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I bought a set of Ludwig Classic Birch in Sea Blue finish. I won an auction for a natural finish 16” floor and want to refinish it into a reasonable facsimile of the Sea Blue, which is a darkish turquoise. I’m not worried about the stain—-we have a Sherman Williams store a half hour away and they’re good at color matching. But I need to get the clear off before I stain it; it’s a very light satin. That would be the first question: best least invasive removal method? Second question: best satin clear coat?
Sand it. Those plys are thick enough to sand back the original finish to bare wood.
 

GeeDeeEmm

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Hmmmm . . . I don't know that sanding would be the best first action to removing the clear coat, Tommy. It's really easy to go too far too fast when sanding, especially when using a power sander. (Not to mention that, considering how tough modern poly is, hand sanding would take a long time.)

I'm thinking that the safest approach would be using a paint remover made specifically for wood, followed by a neutalizer and light sanding preceeding the normal course of sealing, staining and clear coating

For the clear coat, I've had fantastic results from using MinWood Satin Polyurethane. When applied with a high-quality (read: expensive!) fine brush, the finish will usually be almost indistinguishable from a spray coat. I typically do three or four coats with extensive sanding between coats.

GeeDeeEmm
 

dboomer

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That Ludwig finish is a paint, correct? There's no need to remove the original clear finish. Just prep it and paint over it.
 

Luddite

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No, it's a stain with a satin poly clear coat. If I tried to go over the clear, it would be "all stain and no grain!" :icon_e_wink:
 

blueshadow

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I updated a blue shadow floor tom that was too blue, I used a red scotch brite pad to just take off the sheen of the top coat (Classic maple so it was gloss) Then sprayed it with a turquoise candy automotive rattle can. Then top coated it with gloss lacquer. I can't find the Turquoise cheap (well it was $25 a can then....now it's $100 direct from the mfg.) but I have done another clear tom with just blue metalcast rattlecan candy paint like $8 each at auto part stores...it also comes in green and you can layer them for the right color. It shows the grain better than the stuff from Sherwin Williams which I've also tried.

But back to your question I'd stay away from sanding and use a stripper.
 

Luddite

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Looks good! I would be happy with results like that. This kit will be my go to for jams and what little gigging I might do. It’s probably a 6/7 out of 10 condition wise. Anything that looks close in color from ten feet away works for me!
 

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