Replacing/repairing a Rogers mid-70's snare drum throw off tension adjustment knob.

Tama CW

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Is this throw off repairable? Rogers Dynasonic snare drum missing the adjustment knob. It doesn't look like the shaft sheared off and there's a raised "centering" dot in the middle. Splines in good condition at the shaft base. Not much of a stub shaft to work with. Single knobs are probably hard to find. Throw off works fine.
IMG_20190522_223245.jpg
 
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DanC

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Can't see the photo.

Once the knob comes off and is lost, there are no replacements available. You need to find a shaft with the knob still attached. They turn up on ebay only very rarely.

You could use the knob/shaft from a tone control instead, but the knob is much larger and might hit the throwoff arm. And the t/c shafts aren't any easier to find, anyway.
 

Tama CW

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Thanks Dan. The 1" OD muffler knob would just barely fit on this shaft and not interfere with the lever action.
 

Tama CW

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Another option would be to order a new throwoff should you decide to later.

Thanks. Unfortunately, the collector "geek" in me would only want to get the same style that doesn't have that black background around the Rogers script.

Rogers "new" tone control

What are the odds that this new Rogers tone control assembly has the correctly sized shaft/knob for the snare tension adjuster as well??
 
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idrum4fun

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I believe the reason why there isn't much of the shaft sticking up is because it's spring loaded. If you take the strainer apart, you'll probably find that the entire shaft, with spring and securing nut, will drop out from the bottom. Of course, the only way to disassemble the strainer is to keep turning the shaft until the front piece can be removed!

I also agree with not wanting to use the repro "clockface" strainer instead of the original Swivomatic strainer.

-Mark
 

Tama CW

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I believe the reason why there isn't much of the shaft sticking up is because it's spring loaded. If you take the strainer apart, you'll probably find that the entire shaft, with spring and securing nut, will drop out from the bottom. Of course, the only way to disassemble the strainer is to keep turning the shaft until the front piece can be removed!

I also agree with not wanting to use the repro "clockface" strainer instead of the original Swivomatic strainer.

-Mark

Good point Mark. I was thinking that tension rod might have been nearly all the way down (full tension) when something "went wrong" with it. With that remaining shaft removed I don't see why I could find some reasonably authentic looking know that could be pressed on to the existing splined shaft.....IF the strainer can be disassembled without that knob installed. I'd prefer not to have to buy an NOS one for around $100.
 
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idrum4fun

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Good point Mark. I was thinking that tension rod might have been nearly all the way down (full tension) when something "went wrong" with it. With that remaining shaft removed I don't see why I could find some reasonably authentic looking know that could be pressed on to the existing splined shaft.....IF the strainer can be disassembled without that knob installed. I'd prefer not to have to buy an NOS one for around $100.
I'm pretty sure you'll be able to disassemble the strainer, although it may take some time to keep turning that rod counter-clockwise! I'm really familiar with these strainers and have refurbished a number of them. I'm currently away from home until late Saturday, but I think I might have the rod with attached knob. Will let you know either late Saturday or by Sunday morning. In the meantime, see if you can get the strainer apart!

-Mark
 

Tama CW

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I'll give that a whirl this weekend. If I could weld a nut on that shaft it would back out easily. Best I have is a pair of vice grips though.

Thanks Mark.
 

DanC

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I believe the reason why there isn't much of the shaft sticking up is because it's spring loaded. If you take the strainer apart, you'll probably find that the entire shaft, with spring and securing nut, will drop out from the bottom. Of course, the only way to disassemble the strainer is to keep turning the shaft until the front piece can be removed!

I also agree with not wanting to use the repro "clockface" strainer instead of the original Swivomatic strainer.

-Mark

This ....
 

DanC

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Get a Visegrip needlenose pliers clamped onto the top of the exposed shaft. Then turn the shaft counterclockwise until the faceplate drops off the assembly. The shaft should then just pull out of the retainer plate.
Once you have the shaft out, it's easy to see how it will be reassembled. There's a tension spring and a retainer nut on the shaft, remove these, put the new knob/shaft assembly back into the retainer plate, install the spring and thread the retainer nut onto the shaft, and into the recess on the bottom of the retainer plate upper insert. Not too tight, almost all the way, but loose enough to allow the shaft to turn easily.


A call to the Maxwell drumshop (or someone else who sells the repros) might confirm that the threads on a repro tc shaft might be the 12/24 needed for a replacement.
 

idrum4fun

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Hey Dan! If memory serves, I believe the shaft is threaded 10-32. Also, many of the shafts are peened just below the nut, making removal of that nut a bit tough. I had to re-thread the shaft of the last Swivo strainer I worked on because of this issue. I'd supply pictures, but I'm away for a few days.

-Mark
 

Tama CW

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Get a Visegrip needlenose pliers clamped onto the top of the exposed shaft. Then turn the shaft counterclockwise until the faceplate drops off the assembly. The shaft should then just pull out of the retainer plate.......
I tried the vice grips and needle nose pliers this morning. All I did was start stripping the top of that shaft. The shaft didn't budge a bit. The vice grips work great in partially stripped screws and bolts - that have parts of the formerly hex head to lock on to. This rounded shaft on the throw off doesn't give much of anything to grip. I'll give it another go tomorrow.
 

idrum4fun

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I tried the vice grips and needle nose pliers this morning. All I did was start stripping the top of that shaft. The shaft didn't budge a bit. The vice grips work great in partially stripped screws and bolts - that have parts of the formerly hex head to lock on to. This rounded shaft on the throw off doesn't give much of anything to grip. I'll give it another go tomorrow.
Since the shaft is spring loaded, you might want to try pushing up on the slide piece, which is the whole part that moves up/down. You might be able to push up enough to expose more of the splined shaft to grip. Worth a try!

-Mark
 

gkrk

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What spring? Where? Never seen a spring on a Rogers strainer.
 

gkrk

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That shaft looks like it's been knocked hard into the receiving hole so the splines are wedged down in there and the shaft won't turn. Maybe it's more a matter of pulling that out from the top to free it so it will turn. Not sure how to pull it out though.
 

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