Rogers Dynasonic...snare wire rattle

utdrummer

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Recently bought a late 60's Dyna that had been stripped to create a "naked brass" model. Sweet drum, but it is missing the correct bottom hoop and of course the snare rail. i have new heads, wires, and plastic strap but cannot keep the wires from vibrating (rattling and not in a good way!) once struck. Is the original rail mandatory to adjust this drum properly? I'm sure I have seen others play Dynas without the rail setup. Your opinions please...
 

pgm554

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The dyna has no snare bed to speak of,what you need are Fat Cat Pitched snares and ar Remo zero collar snare side head.
 

idrum4fun

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The Dynasonic was designed to include the snare rail and there's really no way around it if you want to eliminate snare rattle and buzz. Snare beds have been used for decades to allow the snare wires to seat into the head and not buzz/rattle. When you buy a Dynasonic, you need to understand how it works. If it comes without the rail and wires, you can purchase an excellent aftermarket unit, as member Ron_M pointed out.

And, for those of you who do know the Dynasonic, yes, there is a snare bed....but only .004" at its deepest point. That's about the thickness of a piece of tissue paper!

I have two Dynasonics; a beautiful 1966 7-line 5x14 that is all original except for heads and a custom-built wood-shell 5x14 made by Joe Montineri using his proprietary 5-ply layup. It's just a gorgeous shell! I had originally transferred all the parts from my 7-line Dyna, but put everything back when the "new" Rogers parts became available.

-Mark
 

pgm554

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The Dynasonic was designed to include the snare rail and there's really no way around it if you want to eliminate snare rattle and buzz. Snare beds have been used for decades to allow the snare wires to seat into the head and not buzz/rattle. When you buy a Dynasonic, you need to understand how it works. If it comes without the rail and wires, you can purchase an excellent aftermarket unit, as member Ron_M pointed out.

And, for those of you who do know the Dynasonic, yes, there is a snare bed....but only .004" at its deepest point. That's about the thickness of a piece of tissue paper!

I have two Dynasonics; a beautiful 1966 7-line 5x14 that is all original except for heads and a custom-built wood-shell 5x14 made by Joe Montineri using his proprietary 5-ply layup. It's just a gorgeous shell! I had originally transferred all the parts from my 7-line Dyna, but put everything back when the "new" Rogers parts became available.

-Mark
The pitched snares and zero collar snare side make up for the lack of a cradle.(about$35 bucks)
But ,for $60 bucks you can get a new cradle from Big Bang.

The dyna is a finicky snare to dial in and a lot of folks didn't like having to constantly tweak it.(Buddy Rich).
Part of the reason he went to a Fibes snare.
 

utdrummer

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I knew about the rail and have seen videos on proper set up, but it's more than I want to deal with at this point. I would really rather tune and move on. Case in point, I had a beautiful LM411, no discernible pitting, but grew tired of constant tweaking. Sold it, got a nice LM402 and never looked back. Same with the naked brass. My original Dyna is fine but I'm looking at set it and forget it. Ordered the collarless head and Fat Cat snares. The drum in the video sounds fine to me. Thanks for all the valuable input.
 

idrum4fun

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The pitched snares and zero collar snare side make up for the lack of a cradle.(about$35 bucks)
But ,for $60 bucks you can get a new cradle from Big Bang.

The dyna is a finicky snare to dial in and a lot of folks didn't like having to constantly tweak it.(Buddy Rich).
Part of the reason he went to a Fibes snare.
Yes, the pitched snares can work as I've tried it. But, what's the point in owning a Dynasonic if you're not going to understand how it works and take the time to learn? That's the fun of it! My first Dynasonic was purchased in 1972. It came with my new Celebrity outfit. The drum came with a booklet on how to tune it. Since then, I've owned quite a few of these wonderful snare drums and have never had issues with them! Can they be finicky? You bet! But a little time spent with the drum returns great dividends!

Now, all that being said, I will say that the Dyna isn't for everyone. The drum is incredibly sensitive and can/will reveal sloppy sticking!

-Mark
 

idrum4fun

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I knew about the rail and have seen videos on proper set up, but it's more than I want to deal with at this point. I would really rather tune and move on. Case in point, I had a beautiful LM411, no discernible pitting, but grew tired of constant tweaking. Sold it, got a nice LM402 and never looked back. Same with the naked brass. My original Dyna is fine but I'm looking at set it and forget it. Ordered the collarless head and Fat Cat snares. The drum in the video sounds fine to me. Thanks for all the valuable input.
I'm glad you found what works for you! Both the Ludwig 400 and 402 are excellent drums and at least one of them should be in everyone's arsenal. It's almost difficult to make them sound bad! What all those seamless shells have in common is the use of wide and shallow snare beds. Once Ludwig settled on this design, they had a winner! The same shell is used for the Acrolite, which is another excellent drum that everyone should have. I have the "blackrolite" version and it's fantastic!

-Mark
 

JazzDrumGuy

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I had an old Dyna beater shell and had this issue. I didnt want the contraption and mine didnt come with one so I hammered a snare bed on both sides. Not perfect but problem solved.
 

mydadisjr

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I hear ya! I actually ground a snare bed into an old dyna shell back in the day, worked out pretty good.

Better than dealing with the goofy rail contraption. We threw those things away back in the day!

Dynas were the rage in the early 70's and I had a few but I saw the light early on and got a Ludwig 402 (Bonham and Carmine made me do it) and never looked back. Spun aluminum shells with gradual snare beds, baby!! The only way to fly (well, spun brass is cool too....).
 

Ron_M

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Yeah, IMO, if you don't want to use the rail, move on to a different drum. Powertones are nice. I especially wouldn't modify a Dyna shell, unless the Dyna was free, and I was drum-broke.
 

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I had to buy a new bridge for a 6 1/2, 7 liner that I purchased last year. This drum is amazing and the best sound of any of the dynas I've had or have. I know those shell are unique, but I really think it was the new bridge that makes this drum pop. I haven't performed the correct tests (swapping that bridge with an older one on different drums) but still believe this true. I'm thinking that Aluminum (soft) bridge has been under constant tension for 60 yrs.
 

poco rit.

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Heres some clear shots of Nate Smith using a Dyna. It looks like his does not have the bridge mechanism. So I guess it can be done. Whatever they did, sounds pretty good to me.

 

hsosdrum

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The Dyna shell is made to be used with the bridge; the bridge is made to be used with the shell. The shell is practically useless without the bridge; you either have to purchase purpose-built snares or modify the shell. (Or learn to put up with a lot of uncontrollable snare buzz and rattle.)

A properly set-up Dyna will allow you to more easily execute delicate and rapid passages that are more difficult to properly play on a typical snare. And once you have it set-up properly it will stay set-up properly if you don't screw around with it. (I learned that the hard way.)

If you're primarily a 2 & 4 backbeat monster there's no reason on Earth to own a Dyna — stick with a Supra, Powertone, or practically any other snare drum. But if your style includes lots of fast snare drum figures and lots of playing at softer volumes, a well set-up Dyna is sheer magic.
 

Treviso1

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I bought a brand new Rogers cradle with the snares for $60. Just set that drum up the right way, the way that it will intended to be set up. You will be happiest and that drum will perform and live up to it's high reputation. You won't be disappointed if you follow the directions for the set up. I really love my new reissue 6.5x14 Gold Lacquer Glitter. I am looking for a 60s Brass Dyna-Sonic!
 

RIDDIM

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The pitched snares and zero collar snare side make up for the lack of a cradle.(about$35 bucks)
But ,for $60 bucks you can get a new cradle from Big Bang.

The dyna is a finicky snare to dial in and a lot of folks didn't like having to constantly tweak it.(Buddy Rich).
Part of the reason he went to a Fibes snare.
It's not that hard if we follow the directions. Most of us probably didn't have access to this back in the day: http://ukdrums.weebly.com/dyna-sonic.html


I never ran across it in the music stores I frequented.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Yeah, IMO, if you don't want to use the rail, move on to a different drum. Powertones are nice. I especially wouldn't modify a Dyna shell, unless the Dyna was free, and I was drum-broke.
My Dyna shell was $25. I bought the Pearl Sensitone entire snare for $60. Total of $85. I then sold the Pearl shell alone for $60, so my "Dyna" shell, 10 tube lugs, throw, butt, hoops, heads and wires cost $25......pretty damn great I'd say........(I added die casts trading out the Pearl super hoops)

20191213_201315.jpg
 


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