Singerland wraps which are stamped "M" on the interior? Gold sparkle 1958's with "M."

K.O.

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I thought for the most part mahogany was the wood used under the wrap to save on money. Why use a select maple wood on the outermost ply only to wrap over it? Did they have so much maple laying around that it really had no difference in the cost? And wouldn't the more porous and softer mahogany take the glue better to give a more secure wrap?
They did use mahogany as the outer ply on the wrapped drums (as did Ludwig all through the 3 ply era, even on most of the later wrapped clear interior "maple" drums). The M denoted either a maple finished shell to be stained/painted or a higher quality mahogany outer ply to be finished as "natural mahogany". The others received the P stamp, "P" for pearl but it meant a shell that was destined for any wrap. I have little doubt that there were exceptions where drums with maple (or nicer mahogany) outer plies did get wrapped, but the intent of the stamps was to differentiate between drum shells intended to be wrapped and those intended for paint or stain/lacquer.
 

Tama CW

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Usually you can tell by the grommet on the inside if its been tampered with. Show us your grommets!
The grommets don't come through to the inside. They are flush to the edge or thereabouts. Probably not a good sign. They look serrated at the inner edge as well. The badges being loose with rusty steel grommets is already 2 strikes.

Got the snare drum Remo classic fit heads in today and they fit ok. But these tall clip-style hoops with mere bends to run the snare cords under don't seat well on the deep snare beds. So you have a 2-3" wide wrinkle on each side that will never come out regardless of tension. Can't be ideal for reso head tuning. Tried 3 sets of snare wires and still a bit sloppy. Got the throw off to hold with a rubber sleeve on the adjuster shaft. Still falling short of sounding like a snare drum. Next step might be brand new Puresound wires, and/or new hoops.
 
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Tama CW

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......I am sure that the sound of those drums is just out of this world. And to me, the color match of the slingy snare and the Ludwig tom is almost identical. Enjoy...BUT be sure to post a picture with the drums all set up !
Here's the photo of the kit set up. I included my 14 floor tom to fill in the picture. I'm very happy with the sound of the kick drum and Ludwig tom. The 22x12 kick has that slap that sounds like a Drum and Bugle Corp kick...thunders....better than any of my deeper 22 and 24 inch kicks.
The wraps on these 3 drums and my 3 other champagne sparkles is nearly identical. They all look like they're from the 60's. I should have the 6 rods/clips to complete the Ludwig tom in a couple weeks. It sounds good just like it is.

Snare drum continues to be a "work in progress." It's been apart numerous times for tweaks and changes. And it still sounds clunky and shrill. Maybe eventually I'll get there.

best 3.jpg
 
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retrosonic

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Tama: BEAUTIFUL!! Thats a GREAT color wrap. Thanks so much for posting those wonderful pics. Yes, please finish the mounted tom. Do you have a cymbal rod for the mount on the bass drum?
 

Tama CW

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Retrosonic, I ordered some "generic" rods and clips to finish off the Ludwig tom ($10). I looked everywhere for a reasonably priced vintage Ludwig rod/clip set and found nothing. Those early Ludwig 4" long rods are scarce.

I don't have the cymbal rod. But I'd bet any MIJ, Kent or other cheap one would fit that simple style mount. I poked around on line and found a supposedly correct 50's Slingerland example for over $50. I don't think it's worth that much to me. Should have kept the Kent rod when I had one in hand. When I get inside that bass drum again I'd like to redo the bent tag and grommet (steel to alum). I put the snare on the back burner for a while until I come up with some fresh thoughts.

best 1.jpg
 
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Angelo Zollo

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This set came with 2 9x13 toms. It is a virgin bass drum which is odd. Question is this, I only play a 4 piece. I don’t want the other Tom. The interior is spotless. The wrap is tight BUT there is a 1 inch slit in the wrap on the wrap on the black ( cannot see ) and the are some small white spots on it. What’s a good price for the extra Tom. Will it hurt the overall value?
 

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Angelo Zollo

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This set came with 2 9x13 toms. It is a virgin bass drum which is odd. Question is this, I only play a 4 piece. I don’t want the other Tom. The interior is spotless. The wrap is tight BUT there is a 1 inch slit in the wrap on the wrap on the black ( cannot see ) and the are some small white spots on it. What’s a good price for the extra Tom. Will it hurt the overall value?
Ohhh it has an M too
 

studrum

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I have a 70's Slingerland 10x14 that was wrapped in faded white wrap that has an M stamp inside. The interior is maple so I guess my own theory is out the window.
If you were to peel that wrap, factory though it may be, I can almost guarantee that you will find the thin outer veneer of maple that Slingerland put on drums to be painted.
In the late 90's I bought a pile of originally-lacquered SlingerLeedys, along with a Niles Slingerland 12x15 marcher, badly abused, in original GOLD SPARKLE. All of these drums have the M stamp. When Jack Lawton stripped the (of course) black spray paint, very "after market," that ruined whatever duco was on the SlingerLeedys, he found the maple outer veneer, wafer thin, for proper painting. I wanted all of these drums to be Black/Gold duco. It was time to peel that 12x15 (which would become a FT). We feared the worst - plastic wrap glued oh-so-strongly into that glue-soakin' outer mahogany ply. Jack would have have to use his famous "flame-out" technique to burn off the finish, right? Nope, he found the wrap was glued on to that same wafer-thin outer veneer of paint-appropriate maple. It popped off in minutes. Fairly easy painting followed.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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If you were to peel that wrap, factory though it may be, I can almost guarantee that you will find the thin outer veneer of maple that Slingerland put on drums to be painted.
In the late 90's I bought a pile of originally-lacquered SlingerLeedys, along with a Niles Slingerland 12x15 marcher, badly abused, in original GOLD SPARKLE. All of these drums have the M stamp. When Jack Lawton stripped the (of course) black spray paint, very "after market," that ruined whatever duco was on the SlingerLeedys, he found the maple outer veneer, wafer thin, for proper painting. I wanted all of these drums to be Black/Gold duco. It was time to peel that 12x15 (which would become a FT). We feared the worst - plastic wrap glued oh-so-strongly into that glue-soakin' outer mahogany ply. Jack would have have to use his famous "flame-out" technique to burn off the finish, right? Nope, he found the wrap was glued on to that same wafer-thin outer veneer of paint-appropriate maple. It popped off in minutes. Fairly easy painting followed.
Stu, that drum set when I acquired it was a 9x13/10x14/16x18/14x24, all 70's 5 ply (serials about 360-460K), all with maple interiors, all with yellowed "white" plastic wrap. I took the wrap off all of those drums as I wanted to redo them. My project got sidetracked but I still have the 24 bass and the 14" tom which I converted into a mini bass. However, each drum had a thin layer of mahogany as the outer veneer.......the wrap was pretty easy to take off but did have a seam on each drum that looked bad after I took the wrap off.

I got the kit for free off CList and it has been sitting in a damp garage and was going into the trash. I gave it some love but it was my first kit restoration maybe 8-10 years ago. I've done many drums since and learned many more techniques, so I didn't do much to it. I did stain the mahogany a gunstock color which added very little tint.....here is a pic:

20191004_185856.jpg
 

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