Slight issue with Yamaha snare strainer

Swissward Flamtacles

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I've also posted this question on drummerworld but so far no one has reported to have had the same problem. Therefore, I'll ask here as well. :)
Maybe someone has had the same "problem" and can chime in - I believe that I've read about it somewhere. When engaging the wires, you need to push the lever pretty hard.
It always feels like you're breaking or at least stretching the wires too much. Loosening the knob a bit does help with that problem but then there's too much rattling when the snares are "on".
So is this a faulty design or is there just a problem with mine (or how I set it up)? The strainer I have shows no signs of mechanical defects and I've never had such a problem with any other strainer. I've already taken it apart and cleaned it. Thanks to anyone that can offer some help!
Position 1: snares off
Position 2: just before the snares are on and when the wires are pulled the most against the head
Position 3: snares on - the strainer drops down slightly again
strainer.JPG
 

drumnhands

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I haven't seen this problem before. I would check the snare beds and make sure they're okay. Perhaps you're having to overtighten the strainer to eliminate rattle because the beds aren't right. Yamaha beds are wide, runing from lug to lug, and that drum should have 1.8mm deep beds in the middle.
 

kicksnarehat

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I'd guess there's not enough travel for the snares to engage properly. Take the wires off and adjust the tension knob so that it's near the middle of the total "travel area" before re-attaching them. With the snares engaged you should have lots of room to either tighten or loosen the wires, which I imagine is not currently the case. I once had a ludwig that a previous owner had replaced the throw with this same Yamaha, and I really liked it. Good luck!
 
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Tdipaul

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I picked up a unique size 4x14 Oak Custom just this afternoon and it too had the same hard lever problem. Not sure if we have the same issue but here is how I fixed mine...

I stripped the entire thing down to inspect and clean and noticed that the strainer was fine when it was off the drum. When I put the top die cast hoop back on the problem was the lever rubbing against the hoop, and hard. I shimmed the strainer outwards with two washers and it still rubbed so tried the triple flanged hoops from my Pearl Sensitone and now it barely rubs and is pretty smooth. I dont know how someone used the strainer with the die cast hoops on, it was that tight (would love put them back on tho, so still thinking of the cause/fix)

Here is a pic of the lever and how close it is to the hoop now



If thats not the problem, check that there is still a gap here when the snares are at the desired tension. If there is no gap, it is maxxed out and cant go any tighter. To fix, loosen the adjustment knob a bit and then reset the snare ribbon (or strings) so there is some gap. In this pic there is probably too much gap so Im going to add some slack at the ribbon at the butt side of the strainer and then tighten the knob some to close the gap



 
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musiqman

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I picked up a unique size 4x14 Oak Custom just this afternoon and it too had the same hard lever problem. Not sure if we have the same issue but here is how I fixed mine...

I stripped the entire thing down to inspect and clean and noticed that the strainer was fine when it was off the drum. When I put the top die cast hoop back on the problem was the lever rubbing against the hoop, and hard. I shimmed the strainer outwards with two washers and it still rubbed so tried the triple flanged hoops from my Pearl Sensitone and now it barely rubs and is pretty smooth. I dont know how someone used the strainer with the die cast hoops on, it was that tight (would love put them back on tho, so still thinking of the cause/fix)

Here is a pic of the lever and how close it is to the hoop now



If thats not the problem, check that there is still a gap here when the snares are at the desired tension. If there is no gap, it is maxxed out and cant go any tighter. To fix, loosen the adjustment knob a bit and then reset the snare ribbon (or strings) so there is some gap. In this pic there is probably too much gap so Im going to add some slack at the ribbon at the butt side of the strainer and then tighten the knob some to close the gap



That is a cool snare.


What are the letters/numbers on the badge saying
 

017

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I picked up a unique size 4x14 Oak Custom just this afternoon and it too had the same hard lever problem. Not sure if we have the same issue but here is how I fixed mine...

I stripped the entire thing down to inspect and clean and noticed that the strainer was fine when it was off the drum. When I put the top die cast hoop back on the problem was the lever rubbing against the hoop, and hard. I shimmed the strainer outwards with two washers and it still rubbed so tried the triple flanged hoops from my Pearl Sensitone and now it barely rubs and is pretty smooth. I dont know how someone used the strainer with the die cast hoops on, it was that tight (would love put them back on tho, so still thinking of the cause/fix)

Here is a pic of the lever and how close it is to the hoop now



If thats not the problem, check that there is still a gap here when the snares are at the desired tension. If there is no gap, it is maxxed out and cant go any tighter. To fix, loosen the adjustment knob a bit and then reset the snare ribbon (or strings) so there is some gap. In this pic there is probably too much gap so Im going to add some slack at the ribbon at the butt side of the strainer and then tighten the knob some to close the gap



This throw-off (H Type) isn't designed to clear the hoops on 4" deep shells. The throw-off's from this era that will clear the hoops are the I Type and IP Type.
 

017

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That is a cool snare.


What are the letters/numbers on the badge saying
It looks like the badge has been scratched and/or digitally altered to obscure some of the digits. My eyes read the first three digits as NSD (which makes sense - standard Yamaha code for Oak Custom Snare), but I can't make out the rest (except the last digit: A). Therefore logic would have you assume it's either a NSD085A (14x5.5) or NSD087A (14x7.0).

However, you couldn't completely cut off the lug holes on the 5.5 (not sure about the 7.0 - I wouldn't have thought so), and the snare looks like it's been repainted solid black (to hide the original holes that have been plugged & filled). Or it could be a 14" rack or floor tom shell?
 

Tdipaul

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hmm based on your excellent detective work Fella's the plot thickens on this drum (sorry to hijack Swissward!)

Looks like NSD687A or NSD887A (?).



...from 2007 based on the QM characters



When it was all apart I didn't see any filled in holes or any other mods indicative of a re-size event, and the bearing edges were both nice and clean (HOWEVER I am no expert!)



After cleaning the wrap with all the lugs off and strainer off I am fairly certain it has not been painted, its just plain old black wrap.

 
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musiqman

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It looks like the badge has been scratched and/or digitally altered to obscure some of the digits. My eyes read the first three digits as NSD (which makes sense - standard Yamaha code for Oak Custom Snare), but I can't make out the rest (except the last digit: A). Therefore logic would have you assume it's either a NSD085A (14x5.5) or NSD087A (14x7.0).

However, you couldn't completely cut off the lug holes on the 5.5 (not sure about the 7.0 - I wouldn't have thought so), and the snare looks like it's been repainted solid black (to hide the original holes that have been plugged & filled). Or it could be a 14" rack or floor tom shell?
The NSD-087A was originally a 14x7 snare indeed:
1614435108500.png

Still if the snare sounds good, that's what counts.
 

musiqman

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This throw-off (H Type) isn't designed to clear the hoops on 4" deep shells. The throw-off's from this era that will clear the hoops are the I Type and IP Type.
Actually, you can.

You just need the piccolo deluxe GP type model (you are referring to the regular G type mode, as the H type model is a later Absolute model):
1614435568349.png


1614435220015.png
 

Tdipaul

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I used different washers to shim the strainer and now there is no rubbing with the cast hoops on



...and took some other pics while the head was off







next to a 5.5 Sensitone

 

Tdipaul

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The NSD-087A was originally a 14x7 snare indeed:
View attachment 487170
Still if the snare sounds good, that's what counts.

True.

If it was originally a 14x7 and cut down to a 14x4 there would be at least 20 extra holes where all the 14x7's inner lugs screws were drilled. I dont see any evidence of that in the pics of the shell above, you?
 

Swissward Flamtacles

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Thanks to everyone that has responded - of course I don't mind discussions about Yamaha snares in general. :D
The problem is not caused by the hoops as the lever moves freely.
If thats not the problem, check that there is still a gap here when the snares are at the desired tension. If there is no gap, it is maxxed out and cant go any tighter. To fix, loosen the adjustment knob a bit and then reset the snare ribbon (or strings) so there is some gap. In this pic there is probably too much gap so Im going to add some slack at the ribbon at the butt side of the strainer and then tighten the knob some to close the gap

I actually had it set up with a gap similar to this. Unfortunately that also doesn't solve it.
I guess I'll have to use my jaw-dropping MS Paint skills to explain the problem:
I need a certain amount of tension when the snares are "on" (lever all the way to the left) so that the response of the wires is defined. But just a bit to the right of the lever's "on" position, the strainer is even higher than when it's "on". And that's where you need to use quite a bit of force. It doesn't feel smooth unfortunately.
strainer diagram.png
 

Tdipaul

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Not if they cut only the top or bottom part.

But they could have used a different shell altogether and used the hardware of the 7'' model. Is the seam straight or diagonal?
Dont see how this is not a possibility since there are no filled-in holes in the shell anywhere, top or bottom.

Seam is vertical.
 

musiqman

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Dont see how this is not a possibility since there are no filled-in holes in the shell anywhere, top or bottom.

Seam is vertical.
If you take only the top part, you would use the existing holes combined with new holes for the lugs.

But as this has a vertical seam, it means the shell is an aftermarket one.
 

Swissward Flamtacles

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Possibly the internal cam is worn?
its nylon or plastic
Maybe a new strainer will fix it.
I took it apart but it looked alright. Some cleaning made the action a bit smoother - I'll try messing with it a bit more but eventually I might change it to the Gibraltar strainer with the adjustable hole spacing. Thanks for your advice!
 

017

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...and took some other pics while the head was off



The shell doesn't look like oak to me. It looks like maple or birch...

Also, the seam looks diagonal to me.
 
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Tdipaul

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The drum was returned to the shop and they were informed of its mystery status.
 


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