Slingerland Restoration Project

D. B. Cooper

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Badge is second black/brass Chicago. Narrows your drum to '59-'61. Lack of 0x0 ink stamp following P stamp is consistent with late 60 and after. Strainer appears correct for your marcher.
So, odds are good for 1960 on that drum?

I'm so excited for these. They're beautiful shells. Gotta have some edges re-cut, though. Reeeeeally don't want to pay for shipping. I wish I could find somebody close that would do the work.
 

ThomFloor

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How long were they? Did the drum you refinished have brackets/mounts for the spurs already installed?
Exact length I don't know, but they were used on a 22" bass drum so could easily reach deep enough to tilt the drum any height. see pic. The kit had holes drilled that actually fit the Tama spur holes.
this (player) kit is made of all Sling orphan shells ...excuse the lugs on the bass drum (had no Sling lugs on hand)
 

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D. B. Cooper

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IMG_20200516_111412229.jpg


Cleaned and ready. It was hard to clean the lug inserts. Some are still rusty...

Is the general consensus around here that white lithium grease is the way to go for lubing all of these parts?
 

D. B. Cooper

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Isn't is crazy how mahogany can be so many different shades of brown?

IMG_20200702_161038819.jpg


Sanded and ready for dye.

(I thought I'd skip the wrap and glue removal this time and only post the finishing. For those of you considering doing this, don't be discouraged by glue being difficult to fully remove. Just keep working at it and it will.)
 

franke

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If you go with black lacquer, keep in mind that mahogany is extremely porous, with deep, narrow "vessels" in the grain, making it a perfect substrate for glue but a difficult one for paint. Your prep work may include filling (Bondo would work, as would some wood fillers), sanding smooth, then gray primer, then perhaps some 3M "blue filler", sanding, then final primer and sanding before shooting black lacquer. Yes, it's a lot of work, but as anyone who's ever done restorative auto body work would tell you, black shows every surface imperfection on account of how it reflects light. That said, some surface imperfections become less visible once hardware is attached, so you may not have to go to such lengths for all the shells, but if your goal is getting as close as one can to a Yamaha RC "piano black" finish in a home workshop setting, results will largely depend on the quality and thoroughness of the prep work.
 

Houndog

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Oh man ,I'm so jealous right now ....I'm a Slingerland guy . I made some spurs with 3/8" Alum rod from ACE for one of my kits .

20/12/15 and a Solid snare ? Man ,that's perfect !!!! I have a 15x12 converted marcher that sounds really nice .

Are you going to try your hand at painting those ?
 

D. B. Cooper

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If you go with black lacquer, keep in mind that mahogany is extremely porous, with deep, narrow "vessels" in the grain, making it a perfect substrate for glue but a difficult one for paint. Your prep work may include filling (Bondo would work, as would some wood fillers), sanding smooth, then gray primer, then perhaps some 3M "blue filler", sanding, then final primer and sanding before shooting black lacquer. Yes, it's a lot of work, but as anyone who's ever done restorative auto body work would tell you, black shows every surface imperfection on account of how it reflects light. That said, some surface imperfections become less visible once hardware is attached, so you may not have to go to such lengths for all the shells, but if your goal is getting as close as one can to a Yamaha RC "piano black" finish in a home workshop setting, results will largely depend on the quality and thoroughness of the prep work.
Yeah. I did 6 coats of "dark red mahogany" aniline dye. They look really great. Forgot to take a picture of them with just dye, though they werent much to look at, kind of dull and red. Im really happy with how the dye made the shells match. You can see above in one of my previous posts that all three drums were different shades. Now they all match really well!
This morning I out on a coat of sealer because my next step is to fill those holes in the grain with tinted wood filler. The sealer should keep the wood from taking on the stain and just allow the holes to be filled. Everything I've seen about this technique led me to believe that it should just accentuate the grain. Once the filler is sanded down I'm going to do a few (probably at least 6, if my previous few projects are an indicator) coats of water based poly. Then I'll buff the final coat with 3M finishing pads on my random orbital sander; which is a cool trick, by the way.

Still debating about a finishing coat of wax. I know scratches show really well with wax, but these will probably live most of their days in my living room as I'm doing another kit for my gigging set.

I'll post a WIP picture in a little while with the sanding sealer applied.
 

DWSlingerland45

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View attachment 441832

Cleaned and ready. It was hard to clean the lug inserts. Some are still rusty...

Is the general consensus around here that white lithium grease is the way to go for lubing all of these parts?
I use white lithium grease exclusively it works great. A little goes a long way so I use it sparingly.
 

D. B. Cooper

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Do you guys thing I could use paste wax (like for furniture finishing) to coat my bearing edges? Or would it stick to the heads of something?

I've heard of folks here using carnuba wax, I believe?
 

D. B. Cooper

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Anybody have a recommendation on heads for these shells with fresh roundovers on them? Ive been using coated emps and I want to try something new, I think these drums have more sustain in there somewhere, just need to find a better head for my tuning. Which is medium-low.

Anybody ever put clear black dots on 60's Slingerlands?
 

D. B. Cooper

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Alright. They're sanded, dyed and sealed. I did a coat of dark tinted woodgrain filler a couple of days ago and sanded it back yesterday. Snapped a pic. They are starting to look really nice!
I also went to Home Depot yesterday and bought materials to make a little lazy susan for spraying poly. Should go together easily. Then I'll be ready to spray!
It's taking longer than I had hoped, but I'm getting there. Having a busy summer!
 

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