Studio Build

owr

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Sinc, regarding dcriggers concerns, I think they are very valid to consider and I went through similar concerns with my build. If you read the literature and forums, folks are very consistent in encouraging full 100% isolation. I am not a contractor or a professional studio builder, but I do know a bit about physics and its never black or white, or binary. A little violation may have an impact, but it should be fairly proportional.

If you look at the second photo in what I posted above, the center beam of my new ceiling sits on a few 2x4 blocks and is secured to the outer framing. Its hard to see which in the photos, but that's the way it is. I remember coming home from work and the seeing that and freaking out a bit. The guy who was building my place turned out to be a piece of work, but on that he basically said you dont have a choice if you want the structure to be stable enough. So most of the ceiling framing weight sits on the inner stud walls, but it is tied into the outer walls in 2 spots.

I have no idea how much this compromised the isolation integrity, but I can play drums in there at midnight with very close neighbors, and 3-4 years in the place hasn't fallen down on me...

After a few years paying attention to this and seeing the types of questions raised on forums my guess is this advice is mostly aimed at folks who think they can get sound proofing by reinforcing the one wall that faces their neighbors. Sound will travel, but its physics, not magic, most likely what you are doing will work well as long as you and you're contractor are putting reasonable thought into it. If not, life's funner with some failures...
 

Sinclair

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If you removed structural beams, I hope an engineer approved it.
Yes. Any load on the beams that were removed was transferred to new support beams connected to the existing roof joists directly above the cut beams in the new ceiling section. Original support beam from wall to wall were every 16 inches across the 25 feet of roof. Only five were cut. Thanks.
 

dcrigger

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Thanks Dave. I really do appreciate your insightful questions. Some, despite my research I simply haven't though of plus this is my first go around with this type of build.
Here are some pictures that I hope address yours and now my concerns.

I'm told that in order for the new inner walls to support the new ceiling one of two things would have to happen. Either much larger beams connecting the walls would be needed or the distance between the walls would need to be less that the current 22ft. I'm having to trust my contractor here as he's built studios before.

So...to offset the fact that the new ceiling is indeed tied to the joists of the existing roof the brackets pictured will be used. BTW the same treatment applies to the walls as well. This will essentially float the drywall off of the framing. (spring loaded isolation hangers as you put it) The rubber pictured is 1lb. What will be used is 2lb. His analogy was your cars engine brackets ability to isolate vibrations through the cars frame. Comments welcome.
Nope - I'm good. I see what you're doing now.

Yes. there's tradeoffs to it - theoretically. But I can't disagree with your contractor - in that such a small difference in performance is not worth the humongous cost of doing it any other way.
 

Sinclair

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Exactly ....still glad you're asking. If he can't answer these questions I'm in big trouble... plus humongous isn't in the budget.
 

Tornado

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I'm not an expert at any of this, but I do know that perfect is the enemy of good. And especially the enemy of "good enough". The goal here (appears) to not be total silence outside the walls. The goal is that the nearest neighbor isn't disturbed by a thumping kick drum while they try to sleep. I don't think perfection is required to meet that goal.
 

Sinclair

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I'm not an expert at any of this, but I do know that perfect is the enemy of good. And especially the enemy of "good enough". The goal here (appears) to not be total silence outside the walls. The goal is that the nearest neighbor isn't disturbed by a thumping kick drum while they try to sleep. I don't think perfection is required to meet that goal.
So true Tornado. Thanks for putting things in perspective. I'm figuring on the rare occasion that live tracking goes late...you just might hear some low end bass drum outside but it hopefully disappears into the night air without my neighbors being any the wiser. Mission accomplished.
 
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Cann_Man28

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Thank you for sharing this with all of us! Looking forward to following along.
 

Sinclair

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Thank you for sharing this with all of us! Looking forward to following along.
Welcome aboard CannMan. Great to have you.

Did I mention the thread membership fees? A $5,000 donation towards this project comes with prestigious membership perks, 24hr thread access and unlimited posting of comments, inquiries and heart felt considerations of your very own suggestions!
Plus for an additional $2,500, for the entire first recording session... your name will be written on the track assignment tape under the fader of your choice. Just think... instead of bass drum, snare top, snare bottom, bass or guitar... I'll be screaming "Dammit I need more CannMan in my phones!! Except for feeling no effects from the drugs...you'll feel like you're almost there!!
Venmo preferred. Thanks in advance!!!
 

Cann_Man28

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Years ago, we traded cymbals on cymbalholic. A trans stamp 22" for an Epoch 22.5". If you still have that trans, that's my fader, let me know and I will send the donation in the form of a promissory note for my future revenue from gigging after covering my gear expenses.
 

Sinclair

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I remember. Sadly I don't have that TS. I do have my original 22TS that will undoubtedly be in a furure overhead. I'm put you down for that fader. Anxiously await your $7500 promissory note.
 

DBT

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Thanks Dave. I really do appreciate your insightful questions. Some, despite my research I simply haven't though of plus this is my first go around with this type of build.
Here are some pictures that I hope address yours and now my concerns.

I'm told that in order for the new inner walls to support the new ceiling one of two things would have to happen. Either much larger beams connecting the walls would be needed or the distance between the walls would need to be less that the current 22ft. I'm having to trust my contractor here as he's built studios before.

So...to offset the fact that the new ceiling is indeed tied to the joists of the existing roof the brackets pictured will be used. BTW the same treatment applies to the walls as well. This will essentially float the drywall off of the framing. (spring loaded isolation hangers as you put it) The rubber pictured is 1lb. What will be used is 2lb. His analogy was your cars engine brackets ability to isolate vibrations through the cars frame. Comments welcome.
Yes . Rubber mounted resilient track spaced accordingly with 1 3/8 QuietRock . Staggered 2x6 walls . Ceilings are tricky . No one can hear a peep coming from my back yard .
 

Sinclair

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Yes . Rubber mounted resilient track spaced accordingly with 1 3/8 QuietRock . Staggered 2x6 walls . Ceilings are tricky . No one can hear a peep coming from my back yard .
What you got there DBT? Love to hear more about your space.
 

DBT

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What you got there DBT? Love to hear more about your space.
I did mine 20 years ago when sound proof material was a lot cheaper so I went all the way . Floating multi layered floor , walls and ceiling . All my walls are double staggered 2x6 , wool insulation , rubber mounted resilient channel and then wrapped in 1/8” audio seal and then 1 3/8” quiet rock . Ceilings almost the same except the thickness of quiet rock down to 3/4”. I wrapped all my light fixtures , switch and outlet boxes ( keep from installing anything in the walls , ceilings to a absolute minimum . When you do seal them properly or the sound proofing is all but worthless . I have a double entry . First sound proof door then goes into a small sound proof “foyer” with the second sound proof door leading into my studio . Keep in mind I did this as part of making my living so I got discounts on materials and did the work myself . For me I have neighbors that are close , my studio is in my back yard and I had to make sure no one could hear anything . No one can day or night . It truly depends on far and how much you want to put into it . I built sound rooms for customers who wanted to go all the way until I told them 1 3/8 Quiet Rock is $200 a sheet and that’s just one part of the system . There are mediums if you are on a budget and can get good results . I’m a overkill kind of guy .
 

DBT

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I did mine 20 years ago when sound proof material was a lot cheaper so I went all the way . Floating multi layered floor , walls and ceiling . All my walls are double staggered 2x6 , wool insulation , rubber mounted resilient channel and then wrapped in 1/8” audio seal and then 1 3/8” quiet rock . Ceilings almost the same except the thickness of quiet rock down to 3/4”. I wrapped all my light fixtures , switch and outlet boxes ( keep from installing anything in the walls , ceilings to a absolute minimum . When you do seal them properly or the sound proofing is all but worthless . I have a double entry . First sound proof door then goes into a small sound proof “foyer” with the second sound proof door leading into my studio . Keep in mind I did this as part of making my living so I got discounts on materials and did the work myself . For me I have neighbors that are close , my studio is in my back yard and I had to make sure no one could hear anything . No one can day or night . It truly depends on far and how much you want to put into it . I built sound rooms for customers who wanted to go all the way until I told them 1 3/8 Quiet Rock is $200 a sheet and that’s just one part of the system . There are mediums if you are on a budget and can get good results . I’m a overkill kind of guy .
Your on the right trail .
 

Sinclair

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Your on the right trail .
Sounds amazing. How big is your space? Thanks for the comment. I have confidence in my design and the contractor. There are no doubt further steps I could take if I had unlimited funds. Still excited about the outcome even if I do get some faint low end leakage.
 

DBT

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Sounds amazing. How big is your space? Thanks for the comment. I have confidence in my design and the contractor. There are no doubt further steps I could take if I had unlimited funds. Still excited about the outcome even if I do get some faint low end leakage.
My space is 24’x22’. You have a solid design for sure . He seems like he’s on the ball . That’s what you want first and foremost . It’s a shame that it costs so much because most people would benefit from sound rooms . My biggest problem with noise is keeping people from making noise outside on a Wednesday night lol . I’ve done small and large areas . One of my clients needed a small area for their daughter who is a Violinist , another who was in the NBA and wanted a Theatre Room , he was fun because he had a blank check and I ended up doing a few more for some of his teammates . I wish I had gotten into it as a specialty in the beginning years ago . I’m happy for you , it is exciting no doubt .
 

Sinclair

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My space is 24’x22’. I wish I had gotten into it as a specialty in the beginning years ago . I’m happy for you , it is exciting no doubt .
That's a nice size. Did you add a control room or raise the ceiling? The guy I found came highly recommended and has built large and small rooms for musicians before. He (and his nephew) specialize. It's a whole other discipline than your home remodel as you know. There's a real science to it and so far he's had good answers to all my concerns. One of the reasons I started the thread was to field questions that I couldn't answer even after my research.
 

DBT

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That's a nice size. Did you add a control room or raise the ceiling? The guy I found came highly recommended and has built large and small rooms for musicians before. He (and his nephew) specialize. It's a whole other discipline than your home remodel as you know. There's a real science to it and so far he's had good answers to all my concerns. One of the reasons I started the thread was to field questions that I couldn't answer even after my research.
So , my studio is attached to my wood shop but completely separate . I ripped the A frame roof off it and put in 2ft. Deep flat trusses giving the building a flat roof . The ceilings are 10ft. . My structure is cinderblock (workshop and studio ) . The studio walls amount to almost 2ft. Thick counting the framed walls , no windows . I’m lucky because my property is zoned Residential / Commercial . No control room .
 

Sinclair

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Yeah!...wish I had cinder block. That and your walls are a low end killer especially with no windows. Mine is a detached garage on a slab. We put it up about 20 years ago. Every now and then I kick myself for not digging out a large below ground basement under the slab. Talk about soundproof. It would have cost me less than I'm spending now. Oh well.
 

DBT

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So , my studio is attached to my wood shop but completely separate . I ripped the A frame roof off it and put in 2ft. Deep flat trusses giving the building a flat roof . The ceilings are 10ft. . My structure is cinderblock (workshop and studio ) . The studio walls amount to almost 2ft. Thick counting the framed walls , no windows . I’m lucky because my property is zoned Residential / Commercial . No control room .
I’ve been looking out to see if someone would start a thread on it . It is a science . When I started there was no internet .
 


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