Very well Known Member
- Apr 4, 2015
- Reaction score
- Chicago, IL, USA
Good points. Now that I think about it, it's probably done more often to hide the seam, rather than hold it down. At least after the dark days of shrinking wraps. Those Ludwig rivets....This makes intuitive sense, but I would not recommend it. The reason is that, over time, the pressure of the lug "digging in" can cause the overlap to bubble up right above it. This may be less of an issue with a throwoff, but my advice is to let the glue do its job. If the overlap lifts a bit without hardware holding it down (which it shouldn't*), it's pretty easy to fix. If the pressure of the hardware is causing the lift, the fix is going to be more challenging.
*one thing to keep in mind is to be sure you area scuffing up the overlapped area with sandpaper prior to gluing. This really helps with adhesion. Our approach to this was to dry fit the wrap with clamps. While clamped, we'd cut the notches and tape off the overlap area. Then you can safely sand the overlap area.
I thought DW did on the original and Collector's Series drums. Also thought Pearl did on their wrapped pro level drums. Tama probably did as well.I don't see any pro level, commercial or boutique manufactures using tape. Rest my case.
Good post, RP.my method - glue it, using 3M 30nf only. . . .
They told me the same. I ordered wrap for two snares and she advised me to buy the DAP product locally.....rather than buying the 3M from them. That way I could avoid having to buy an entire can of 3M for two drums.Good post, RP.
I like to use petroleum-based contact cement, especially considering how many wood-working sources cite long-term failure to bond with water-based cement. These bonding problems may not be the case with modern water-based cements, but there were certainly problems in the past. Regardless . . .
For many years, my go-to contact cement has been WeldWood "Original" cement, which has yet to yield any bonding failures. So, I called Precision Drum Company and inquired about using Weldwood petroleum-based contact cement on my current recovering project. I was told that the use of petro-based cements is "no problem with pearl wraps," and that Delmar's recommendation of 3M-30NF is based upon state and federal air quality standards laws concerning non- or minimally-vented workplaces.
I just completed rewrapping the first drum using the WeldWood "Original" contact cement, and it worked perfectly.
The saddest thing about that is that wrap is actual chrome plated steel, pretty unlikely that it was going to shrink and pull apart at the seam the way the plastic wraps were so those rivets were pointless on that drum (pretty sure Ludwig was still gluing the wrap on the shells at that point not just taping the seams...but the plastic wraps they were using weren't dimensionally stable).
Hmm. I guess I've been out of the loop when it comes to modern two-sided tapes. I wasn't aware of the SpeedTape at all, but it looks very interesting:. . . FastCap Speedtape, and it's a monster. I used the tape on the entire piece of veneer, not just edges and seam. . . . .