The beginning of an exciting project.

D. B. Cooper

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You want to use a stripper that does NOT contain methylene chloride (which is a PAINT stripper). Also you want to avoid anything that says to use water for washing or thinning.

Lacquer strippers work very fast and do not require sitting in it for more than about 5 minutes. They are basically lacquer thinner with a few extra added ingredients. You then rinse them off with lacquer thinner.
Ok. So look for laquer stripper and clean with laquer thinner?
 

hatandbeard

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I almost bought that 12 x 17 :) :) pretty sure I had that in my saved list on eBay I could be wrong... I love that size always wanted a bass drum in that size or 13 X 17.....
 

D. B. Cooper

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Anybody have experience with Odery hardware? Thinking seriously about going all Odery lugs. Awaiting a quote now.
They look like they're really nice. Made of brass and the chrome looks nice.
 

D. B. Cooper

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Love the idea and will also be looking for the update on this project as well. Speaking for myself, once lacquer is really well cured I have always struggled with removing it using just lacquer thinner. You may need to use a stronger solvent but that is fine since your going to wash the shell afterwards anyway. Just a reminder to protect the badge!
Hey! Anybody know what kind of solvent might take this old laquer off of this brass shell?

Also, after I use citrus strip, do I need to neutralize it before sanding and finishing?

Thanks!
 

JazzDrumGuy

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I strip using citrus strip. I scrape off using a metal or plastic scraper - carefully to not scratch the shell. Then I wipe it all with an old towel and let it dry for a few hours+, then sand. No need to neutralize.
 

D. B. Cooper

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I strip using citrus strip. I scrape off using a metal or plastic scraper - carefully to not scratch the shell. Then I wipe it all with an old towel and let it dry for a few hours+, then sand. No need to neutralize.
That's how I've always done it. But I've always just oiled the shells with Danish oil after sanding. Thinking about doing a laquer finish or something this time and wanted to know if that requires special clean up.
 

D. B. Cooper

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Nothing needed. When I refinished that Jazzette kit, I sanded the shells after citristrip, then applied stain then applied satin finish. I think they turned out great....
Will you post a picture? I am forgetting what the looked like. I remember the thread....
 

JazzDrumGuy

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The shells were wrapped in plastic chrome with an outer mahogany ply so I wanted to preserve that as much as possible. The before is after Citrustrip and sanding. The after is I think 3 coats of stain and 6 coats of satin poly. The Haynes poster was my inspiration....and a final photo is attached. During the restoration, I came across a pristine original finish Pioneer (behind the kit) - I got the finish pretty close.

First3 14FT & 18B 20180307_234646.jpg





14FT2 20180318_003858.jpg

12 & 14 peeled 20180319_224752.jpg
3 stained 20180402_234714.jpg
Final3 20180416_234721.jpg

Roy Haynes Jazzette.jpg
 

D. B. Cooper

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The shells were wrapped in plastic chrome with an outer mahogany ply so I wanted to preserve that as much as possible. The before is after Citrustrip and sanding. The after is I think 3 coats of stain and 6 coats of satin poly. The Haynes poster was my inspiration....and a final photo is attached. During the restoration, I came across a pristine original finish Pioneer (behind the kit) - I got the finish pretty close.

View attachment 443787




View attachment 443792
View attachment 443779 View attachment 443781 View attachment 443783
View attachment 443782
Woah. Those look great! What stain did you use?
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Minwax red mahogany, then Minwax satin poly. Interestingly, I matched a 5x14 Jazz Fest that kit perfectly a few months later. However, I had an import Luddy maple 3x13 snare that I wanted to match and stained a couple weeks ago and the stain had gotten much darker and gloopy. It looks fine on the wood but the color is a much more red and much darker than the kit so it looks a little off..... so if you're going to refinish, do it all at once because the stain goes bad.
 

D. B. Cooper

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Minwax red mahogany, then Minwax satin poly. Interestingly, I matched a 5x14 Jazz Fest that kit perfectly a few months later. However, I had an import Luddy maple 3x13 snare that I wanted to match and stained a couple weeks ago and the stain had gotten much darker and gloopy. It looks fine on the wood but the color is a much more red and much darker than the kit so it looks a little off..... so if you're going to refinish, do it all at once because the stain goes bad.
Cool. Thanks for the tip. I'm undecided about wether or not to stain.
Were the pre 70's natural mahogany drums from American manufacturers stained? I would guess so, since your kit looks like the ones I've seen on eBay and such.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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It was hard to figure out. There's no question that there's some sort of dark red on them all though it may be a paint because on some drums you can't see the grain. Since the grain on mine was perfect on the bass and floor tom, and only had a very small area with damage on the rack tom, I wanted a stain to showcase the grain.
 

clowndog

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I really hope you didn’t strip or re-lacquer that George B Stone drum. There are so few of them around, and that one looks clean and all there. A builder ahead of his time. Lots of better candidates than ruining that. With that, I like the concept of the project.
 

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