Very Lovely 18" Big A Zildjian Crash Ride w/ 5 rivets SOUND FILE

vinnyrac63

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18" new A crash ride w/ 5 bosphorus rivets. Weighs 1352 grams. Very lively with a great bell to boot. THere are some ink markings on the underside from where I measured off for the rivets. I've been installing rivets for decades both for myself, for friends and for a couple of top tier NYC jazzers (who happen to be my neighbors) I have a whole methodology I won't bore you with but the rivets are evenly and accurately spaced. Markings will come off w/ some groove juice

Price is $125.00 shipped in the Con USA Check out the sound file.
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https://soundcloud.com/vinnyrac%2Fzildjian-a-18-crash-ride

https://soundcloud.com/vinnyrac%2Fzildjian-a-18-crash-ride
 

GeeDeeEmm

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Oh, please DO "bore" us with your rivet installation procedure!

I need to re-install the rivets that I removed from my HH Medium Ride cymbal, and I'm ears-open for any method suggestions. I've been installing them for many years, but I use the typical pointed, then rounded punch method which I follow with a peen hammer.

The shortcoming of my method is that the flared end of the rivet has a tendency to crack and/or leave sharp edges that love to collect string - and sometimes flesh.

Show us how you do it, please.

GeeDeeEmm
 

vinnyrac63

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A punch!!! That's like calling ketchup marinara sauce. Infamia! Never use a punch. Too risky. First off I invested in one of those lay out mats for drum builders from drum maker dot com. If I'm going to drill one of my cymbals I play it for a good month first so I know how the cymbal sits on the stand and what the right amount of rivets is for the cymbal. Next I lay the cymbal flat and with a rivet in pinched between thumb and forefinger I gently tap from the edge inward listening for a change in pitch. When the pitch starts to go down I've located the high point of profile. If I want more sizzle I'll place the rivets closer to the edge, less sizzle and the rivets go in more towards the bell. Measure three times and then check the chord lengths. If I'm with in an 1/4 inch then I know that my markings are precise. Any more and that means things are off and I have to start again. I have a pointy tool that I tap w/ a hammer to get the hole started. It's really just so the drill bit has a place to sit and doesn't slip. I would never think of driving that thing all the way through the cymbal. I always drill from the underside of the cymbal, never the top. I use an old fashioned, hand cranked egg beater drill. NEVER AN POWER DRILL or a DREMEL. EVER. A drill press is fine as long as you put it on a low setting. The hand crank drill allows me to take my time. I use a bit that's much smaller than the actual diameter of the rivet. After the hole's are all drilled I have a metal awl that I use to widen them. Lee Ruff hipped me to this tool when he first started selling Roberto's cymbals and the cymbals were arriving with holes to small to accommodate modern cymbal stands. With all the drill holes widened I have a special de-burring tool that I use to smooth out the rough edges. This is vitally important because a cymbal with burs will inhibited the sizzle effect. Gotta make that metal smooth. Next comes the rivets. ZIldjian rivets need to be hammered with a ball peen hammer; the presplits require a flat head screw driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. Once all the rivets are installed I'll clean the cymbal up and remove the measuring marks. And that's how I drill my cymbals. Takes about an hour to do properly from measuring to clean up. Most I ever did was 24 in a 22" inch swish for a friend. And that's why I'm presently out of Zildjian rivets and why this particular cymbal has pre-splits in it.
 


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