WFL Snare Interior

Santino

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A while back, I came across what I thought was a Ludwig Pioneer in a local music store. Normally, I would have kept walking but it was Black Oyster Pearl. Badge was missing but the wrap looked original. I asked how much, they said $99 and I forked it over, happily. I took it home without paying much attention, played the existing head, tuned it up and it sounded pretty good. Then I threw it into the rack.

I took it out last night and began to disassemble. Found out I had a WFL, guessing late 50s with the properly stamped P83 throw and I smiled a bit. I removed the heads to look for a date stamp and my heart sank. Somebody painted the interior of the drum, re-rings and all, with black paint, stopping short of the bearing edges, which are pretty darn nice.

Can I strip this without screwing up the shell using a citrus stripper? I'm scared to death of screwing up this old shell. Guidance is appreciated.
 

andlours

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If it's a WFL it should be a natural interior. I don't think they started the white paint until the transition badge era.
 

EvEnStEvEn

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Most likely natural mahogany interior if WFL.
Maybe you should just leave it painted rather than fooling with strippers (ha)
 

squidart

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I have 2 Ludwig transition shells with the same interior spray paint dillema. After sanding a couple of areas to reveal the mahogany, I think that’s the route I’m gonna go. Stripping might just make the paint go deeper into the grain.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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I've done a lot of fooling around with strippers - both the toxic and non-toxic kind, E.Steven.
;-)

You can strip the black paint, but it will likely still have a very light tint black color left inside once you're done. Citrustrip is great and will not damage the wood or bearing edges/rerings.
Just be careful to only put it on the painted areas, and just in case, avoid the bearing edge, and I would not use a big glop of it - a thin coat and maybe 30 minutes should be fine.
Do at your own risk, but I would not worry about it. However, to get the item back to natural, you will probably need to sand the interior.

You can post pics, too, if you want.....
 

Santino

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I have 2 Ludwig transition shells with the same interior spray paint dillema. After sanding a couple of areas to reveal the mahogany, I think that’s the route I’m gonna go. Stripping might just make the paint go deeper into the grain.
 

Santino

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Since it was a $99 shell. It's almost worth it.
I don't mind if it has a bit of black engrained. It's worth a shot. I just don't want to destroy the shell.
 

Santino

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I've done a lot of fooling around with strippers - both the toxic and non-toxic kind, E.Steven.
;-)

You can strip the black paint, but it will likely still have a very light tint black color left inside once you're done. Citrustrip is great and will not damage the wood or bearing edges/rerings.
Just be careful to only put it on the painted areas, and just in case, avoid the bearing edge, and I would not use a big glop of it - a thin coat and maybe 30 minutes should be fine.
Do at your own risk, but I would not worry about it. However, to get the item back to natural, you will probably need to sand the interior.

You can post pics, too, if you want.....
 

Santino

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Thanks, Jazz.
I know it's my risk. Considering all I'm hearing is...the shell may be darkened from paint removal, I feel better

Nobody said I'd ruin the shell.

I'll give it a shot and report back with pics.
 

Santino

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Before I take the plunge, here's what I'm working with in the condition it was purchased.
They actually did paint the bearing edgesIMG_20190222_0826239.jpg IMG_20190222_0823194.jpg
 

JazzDrumGuy

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I'm no vintage Ludwig/WFL expert by any means, but I believe the wrap is not original. It looks like the 70's pearl wrap that was called the "bowling ball" wrap. I don't know if WFL started the wrap in the scarf joint (like Ludwig did) - is it in the joint? Also, if you take a lug off, is there wrap fade?

I bring this up because I got burned on a "vintage" blue oyster pearl Pioneer in a trade from a DFO-er that had the more authentic looking 60's wrap (which looks great!), but clearly was a rewrap because 1) Not in the scarf joint, 2) no wrap fade under a lug, and 3) obviously a rewrap because the edge was notched so heads fit easily (which they would, anyway!)......

Also, I thought in the WFL era, drums were 5.5" high - I am not sure why I think this - and yours seems pretty shallow - curious, is it 5" high? Also, stupid Q, but is there 6 or 8 lugs? You said Pioneer (6), but for some reason, looks like 8 to me....

Lastly, I have a transition badge gold sparkle Jazz Fest (called the "Barrett Deems" model) with nickel hardware, sized 5.5x14, date stamped 10-12-60 in red, and it has the clear maple interior, FWIW.....so yours should have been natural inside.....
 
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Santino

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I'm no vintage Ludwig/WFL expert by any means, but I believe the wrap is not original. It looks like the 70's pearl wrap that was called the "bowling ball" wrap. I don't know if WFL started the wrap in the scarf joint (like Ludwig did) - is it in the joint? Also, if you take a lug off, is there wrap fade?

I bring this up because I got burned on a "vintage" blue oyster pearl Pioneer in a trade from a DFO-er that had the more authentic looking 60's wrap (which looks great!), but clearly was a rewrap because 1) Not in the scarf joint, 2) no wrap fade under a lug, and 3) obviously a rewrap he edge was notched so heads fit easily (which they would, anyway!)......

Also, I thought in the WFL era, drums were 5.5" high - I am not sure why I think this - and yours seems pretty shallow - curious, is it 5" high? Also, stupid Q, but is there 6 or 8 lugs? You said Pioneer (6), but for some reason, looks like 8 to me....

Lastly, I have a transition badge gold sparkle Jazz Fest with nickel hardware, sized 5.5x14, date stamped 10-12-60 in red, and it has the clear maple interior, FWIW.....so yours should have been natural inside.....
Jazz,
The drum is 5.5" deep and has 6 bowtie lugs. You're definitely right about it being a re-wrap (seam under a lug).
Like I said, at $99 bucks, I'm okay with it. I'll probably try to strip the black paint and see what I uncover.
I actually have some of the "vintage" BOP wrap laying around that I bought off of Sam when he had it in stock.
May as well try to put some lipstick on this pig but it's going to have to wait for a bit. I'll try to find a period correct badge as well.
 

JazzDrumGuy

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Okay. I just wanted to make sure because if it was a real vintage BOP WFL 6 lugger 5.5x14 (if they exist?), AND something went wrong in the process, I'd feel badly about it.

So you scored a $99 Pioneer with no badge - that's still a killer deal on parts alone!

Final Q's - is the hardware chrome or nickel (looks chrome to me)? And does a magnet stick to the hoops?
 

JDA

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Clean it Oil it Tune it and play it. Looking for sound not looks. It will look fine. Wouldn't do but that to it. Maybe dry light sandpaper on the inside to "make it yours"...
 

Santino

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Okay. I just wanted to make sure because if it was a real vintage BOP WFL 6 lugger 5.5x14 (if they exist?), AND something went wrong in the process, I'd feel badly about it.

So you scored a $99 Pioneer with no badge - that's still a killer deal on parts alone!

Final Q's - is the hardware chrome or nickel (looks chrome to me)? And does a magnet stick to the hoops?[/QUOT

Hardware is chrome. Hoops are steel, not brass based on weight alone, no magnet test. I have a few brass hoops. These don't compare.
 


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