WTB-Asba Caroline Bass Drum Pedal

nopork

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Looking for Asba Caroline bass drum pedal. Must be in very good to excellent original condition. $'s waiting for the right pedal.
 

aston

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I have un-modded and modded ASBA Caroline pedals and lots of parts.

Can sell individually, prefer to sell the entire lot.

Brian
(818) 636-1693, Los Angeles
 

nopork

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aston said:
I have un-modded and modded ASBA Caroline pedals and lots of parts.

Can sell individually, prefer to sell the entire lot.

Brian
(818) 636-1693, Los Angeles
I texted you for information on these.
 

AndreSean

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I'm looking for some parts for my asba caroline bass drum pedal. Does anyone know where I can find parts?
 

Hop

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HOORAY! My all-time favorite BD pedal is being resurrected by the manufacturer!
I tried hitting them up on FB again a few months ago and heard only the sound of crickets.
I just tried to email them through their website... so we'll see what happens there!
 

Hop

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I'm looking for some parts for my asba caroline bass drum pedal. Does anyone know where I can find parts?
Did you try contacting the member above?

What parts are you looking for?
 

Hop

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I'm looking for the part that holds the bass drum beater.
Unfortunately I don't have a spare one... However, is the part defective/stripped/broken or flat out missing?
The reason I ask is that it would be a fairly easy to replace the part. I believe it's just a simple partially threaded stud that has been drilled for the beater rod.

Check you local HD/Lowes/ or even machine shop and have one made.
Here's a link to the McMaster-Carr online catalog. From the "screws" landing page click on "Threaded Rods and Studs" then click on "Partially Threaded Studs."

I've included an image as well for your reference. Let me know if you help on the sizing.
 

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AndreSean

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Thank you for the help. Mine is flat out missing. I just picked this pedal up from a seller yesterday and that was the only part that he did not have.
 

AndreSean

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Looking at the McMaster-Carr catalog, do you think this would work?
Screw-Down Split-Bolt Splices
 

Hop

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That could probably work if the "split" is large enough to hold a beater rod...
However, just going off memory, the Caroline uses a wing nut instead of a threaded nut and I think the drilled version may be stronger in the long run.
I marked up an image of that split bolt BR = beater rod, WN = wing nut.
Drilling a stud isn't that hard if you have a drill press, or a friendly neighbor with one, or last resorts a machine shop.

When I got to my practice space today, I'll take the part off the pedal and photograph it for you with a tape measure reference and upload them for your reference.
 

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AndreSean

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That could probably work if the "split" is large enough to hold a beater rod...
However, just going off memory, the Caroline uses a wing nut instead of a threaded nut and I think the drilled version may be stronger in the long run.
I marked up an image of that split bolt BR = beater rod, WN = wing nut.
Drilling a stud isn't that hard if you have a drill press, or a friendly neighbor with one, or last resorts a machine shop.

When I got to my practice space today, I'll take the part off the pedal and photograph it for you with a tape measure reference and upload them for your reference.
That would be awesome. Thanks.
 

Hop

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The forum may drop the resolution down on these copies... let me know if you need the larger file sizes and I'll email them to you.

After looking at the component I think we can rule out that splice bolt from above. The threaded part is certainly smaller than the main body of the stud that the beater fits in to.
Don't know if McMaster-Carr will have an off-the-shelf stud for you? Worse case scenario is to take the pics and pedal to a local machinist or gun smith and have one made up.

I took a bunch of angles on the stud, so you should be able to approximate the sizing pretty well... also don't forget that the pedal was made in France (i.e. think metric).
 

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AndreSean

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The forum may drop the resolution down on these copies... let me know if you need the larger file sizes and I'll email them to you.

After looking at the component I think we can rule out that splice bolt from above. The threaded part is certainly smaller than the main body of the stud that the beater fits in to.
Don't know if McMaster-Carr will have an off-the-shelf stud for you? Worse case scenario is to take the pics and pedal to a local machinist or gun smith and have one made up.

I took a bunch of angles on the stud, so you should be able to approximate the sizing pretty well... also don't forget that the pedal was made in France (i.e. think metric).
Thank you! I will see what I can find here in town.
 

AndreSean

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The forum may drop the resolution down on these copies... let me know if you need the larger file sizes and I'll email them to you.

After looking at the component I think we can rule out that splice bolt from above. The threaded part is certainly smaller than the main body of the stud that the beater fits in to.
Don't know if McMaster-Carr will have an off-the-shelf stud for you? Worse case scenario is to take the pics and pedal to a local machinist or gun smith and have one made up.

I took a bunch of angles on the stud, so you should be able to approximate the sizing pretty well... also don't forget that the pedal was made in France (i.e. think metric).
Thanks for all of the pics. This will be a great help.
 

Hop

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Thanks for all of the pics. This will be a great help.
Glad it was of some help. The most important thing is the size of that main barrel/stud as that is what fits into the port on the main beater support saddle (notice the chamfer/bevel countersink [or what ever the receiver is called], that the beater bolt fits into).

I do believe the beater rod is slightly larger on the Caroline (I didn't think to take a pic with the tape measure, doh!) than your typical beater of that time period. So it may be better to figure out what beater your going to use and have the hole in the barrel/stud drilled for that. The way it was originally configured you can use a slightly thinner beater rod and it will still clamp tightly once the beater stud get tightened.
 


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